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A gorilla at Volcanoes National Park in Ruhengeri, Rwanda. AP/Press Association Images

Poachers turned gamekeepers: Rwanda looks to hunters to save mountain gorillas

The poachers say hunting was the only way to make a living.

FOR FOUR DECADES Leonidas Barora was a renowned hunter, tracking animals in the lush forests of Rwanda. Now he only fires arrows to impress tourists, and to help protect the wildlife.

Hundreds of ex-poachers have been persuaded to put down their weapons and support efforts to protect endangered mountain gorillas in the Volcanoes National Park, where thick jungle hills are shrouded in mist.

The Virunga mountain range, rising over 4,500 metres high along the remote borders of Rwanda, Democratic Republic of Congo and Uganda, is the last sanctuary in the world of man’s giant cousin, which number now around just 800 individuals.

Made famous by the late US zoologist Dian Fossey — murdered in 1985 by suspected poachers — the park faces the same threats she wrote about over two decades ago in her book “Gorillas in the Mist”.

Population growth and poverty push people to encroach increasingly deeper into the park to graze their cattle, cut bamboo for building or hunt for food.

For hunters like Barora, now aged 75, hunting had been the only way to earn a living.

“After killing the animals, I traded the meat in the village for beans or potatoes, I didn’t make money,” said Barora, after shooting off his deadly arrows at a target, to show visitors his old skills.

“I hunted buffalo, antelope and elephant… I never intentionally killed a gorilla because gorillas are like human beings, but I did accidentally kill them in traps I had set.”

In the lush highlands of Rwanda’s northwest, the “Iby’Iwacu” village — “our heritage” in Kinyarwanda — is a reconstruction of a traditional community, where Barora and other ex-poachers now work to guard the wildlife they once hunted.

Income from tourists provides an incentive to protect the gorillas.

Park rangers say the giant apes are not the main targets of poachers, but the gorillas are instead injured — or killed — in the traps they set for other animals for bush meat.

For Barora, his life changed in 2005 after meeting Edwin Sabuhoro, then one of the national park staff.

Congo-Rangers in the Mist AP / Press Association Images AP / Press Association Images / Press Association Images

500 ex-poachers employed 

Traumatised by rescuing a baby gorilla from a poacher, the young man decided he must convince the hunters they had more to gain by protecting the park’s wildlife than continuing the killing.

“The poachers were telling me: ‘If you lived around the park, your children were hungry, and you know that in the park you could find to eat, what would you?’,” Sabuhoro asked.

So Sabuhoro resigned, bought land at the foot of the mountains, and went to the poachers, pleading for them to join him.

“He told me: ‘Go get the other poachers in the park and tell them I’ll give them work, but in exchange you have to stop poaching’,” recalled Barora.

Within six months, 500 poachers had come from the forests to join Sabuhoro at the cultural village, building small round huts with mud walls and thatched roof, around a replica of a chieftain’s hall.

Now the tourists who visit the gorillas in the jungles stop on the way down the mountain to discover Rwandan culture, including songs and dances.

Men leap high into the air dressed in striking white headdresses to the beat of a drum in a traditional dance.

Women weave baskets, while a former poacher provides lessons in the medicinal lore of plants from the jungles.

Profits are ploughed back into the project, paying salaries of former poachers and their families, as well as a community fund, used to pay for the education of children from poor families, and help create agricultural or handicraft cooperatives.

“When I was a poacher I did not have a house, I was living like an animal,” said Barora. “Now I have a salary, a house, a wife and six children.”

 ’Humbling’ 

Other ex-poachers have become porters, carrying loads as tourists trek into the wild to see the gorillas, while some have even joined the anti-poaching units of the park.

Congo-Rangers in the Mist AP / Press Association Images AP / Press Association Images / Press Association Images

Inspired by Sabuhoro’s success, Rwanda’s government now puts five percent of the annual revenue from park fees into projects supporting local communities, such as building schools and hospitals.

“People here now see the importance of protecting the park and the animals,” said Felicien Ntezimana, a guide for tourists, who each pay €580 for the privilege of spending an hour with the gorillas.

Its a hefty price tag, but tourists say it is worth the cost.

On this trip, after two hours of walking on steep paths through the thick forest, dramatic peaks smothered in swirling cloud above, the tour group came face-to-face with a family of 20 gorillas, including five of “silverback” adult males, peacefully chewing bamboo shoots.

One of the biggest gorillas, caught in poacher’s snare when young, had a stump where his hand should have been.

“It’s a great experience, very humbling,” said Australian tourist Kristin Warren.

Threats to the mountain gorilla — including war, habitat destruction and disease — were once thought to be so severe that the species could become extinct by the end of the 20th century.

But the population has increased significantly in the last 30 years, largely due to improved conservation efforts such as the project here.

“It is unique, the best example of eco-tourism,” added Warren.

© – AFP 2014

Read: Kenya’s largest elephant has been killed by poachers >

Video column: Is there a viable solution to ivory poaching? >

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    Mute Carmella Mcgilvery
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:31 PM

    if television adds 10 pounds …does ryan tubridy even exist ??

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    Mute Seth Mcguinness
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    Dec 13th 2015, 12:25 AM

    He exists as pure energy just for his wages.

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    Mute Luke Sarpish
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:03 PM

    Mark Whalburg didn’t even to get to sit down before chopstick Tubridy asked about his Irish roots.

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    Mute Peter McGlynn
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:51 PM

    Sure we claim them just because their great great aunt was raped by an Irish slave-owner ffs.

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    Mute Peter McGlynn
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:51 PM

    Great great grandmother obviously :-).

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    Mute Free comment ratings
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:02 PM

    Thanks for clearing that up peter.

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    Mute Gerry Campbell
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:50 PM

    Ah he probably tipped the two of them , ur ok..

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    Mute OneTrueVoice
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:03 PM

    The Late Late Show with Ryan Tubridy.

    Ireland’s answer to I’m a Celebrity Get Me Out Of Here.

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    Mute John Smith
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:34 PM

    Ireland’s Alan Partridge.

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    Mute DonalC
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:43 PM

    Brendan O Connor was absolutely horrific as well. People let D’Arcy blind them into forgetting how crap the two of them were. Just rewatch that Pussy Riot interview and tell me O’Connor was doing a decent job!

    Irish TV is just dreadful in general

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    Mute Hypernova
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:29 PM

    In fairness Donal,I don’t think anyone on Earth would be able to have a good interview with Pussy Riot.They were a small bit strange and the language barrier didn’t help.

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    Mute Myles Sheehan
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    Dec 12th 2015, 3:56 PM

    Brendan O’Connor’s interview with Liam Gallagher was one of the worst things I’ve seen any any talk show. He’s such a cringey bollocks.

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    Mute Tony Le Blanc
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    Dec 12th 2015, 4:32 PM

    Really John? That’s like trying to decide which animals dung you would rather have thrown at you.

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    Mute Seán Domhnall O'Sullivan
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    Dec 12th 2015, 8:36 PM

    Pat Kenny with Pete Doherty was the one that sent me over the edge. Truly awful even if I’d ever defend rte, which I wouldnt

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    Mute Linny
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:20 PM

    Every time Tubridy said “You guys”, I died a little inside.

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    Mute Alan Biddulph
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:08 PM

    So tell me about your kids, are they normal? Amazing journalistic skills from the the main man.

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    Mute Fred Astare Astare
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:09 PM

    If Tubridy is talented, I’m Santa Claus!

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    Mute Periguin
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:13 PM

    Dear Fred,
    I’ve been a very good boy this year……..

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    Mute Fred Astare Astare
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:20 PM

    Dear Periguin, I will give you all you wished for this year……

    First prove to me Tubridy is “Talented”

    Ho! Ho! …..Ho!

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    Mute Sinead Hanley
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:27 PM

    When the likes of Tubridy and that dreadful Xpose crew meet a Hollywood Star, I want to barf.. Have you got Irish roots/did u have the craic in an Irish pub/would u like to make a film in Ireland/when are you coming back.. These questions are patronising.. I am sure the stars in question find them boring too

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    Mute Ben Connolly
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:59 PM

    Tubridy asked them are your kids normal omg what a question

    58
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    Mute Patrick James Walsh
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:36 PM

    Tubridy is just so plain cringe inducing, embarrassing to watch him make an idiot of himself, night after night, surely there is someone reasonably competent in RTE to host a chat show without having to watch this car crash tv.

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    Mute Supernova
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    Dec 12th 2015, 3:19 PM

    I had to turn it off.. To cringey!

    35
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    Mute Cupid Stunt
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:48 PM

    Isn’t it great to be known as a nation of drunks.

    44
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    Mute Martin Healy
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    Dec 12th 2015, 3:35 PM

    Ryan turbridy he’s as sincere as a prostuitute’s kiss

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    Mute Tony Le Blanc
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    Dec 12th 2015, 4:35 PM

    Tubridy; Irelands answer to a question nobody has ever asked.

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    Mute bacoxy
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:24 PM

    Where is the story about Paul Murphy and the FOI request from Irish water gone? Why have ye removed it?

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    Mute Fred Astare Astare
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:24 PM

    Mr. Tubridy reminds me of a Skoda with alloy wheels, pardon me if I sound a little biased.

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    Mute Fred Astare Astare
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:26 PM

    I meant the 70′s Skodas, Not too many reds now boys and girls, or your wishes wont come true.

    Merry Christmas………

    23
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    Mute Periguin
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:27 PM

    Lada comes to mind, with a sunroof and heated rear window.

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    Mute Fred Astare Astare
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:31 PM

    Thats what I meant>>> DOH…

    You’ve been a very good boy Periguin………Now… besides removing a stick insect from the National Broadcaster…..What would you like for Christmas?

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    Mute Periguin
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:39 PM

    ummm, world peace and a decent political structure and represntatives. Impossible, i know, but.

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    Mute Fred Astare Astare
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:58 PM

    You’re right, Impossible, meanwhile here is a Ryan Tubridy colouring book with markers, shouldn’t take you too long to fill in………….

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    Mute Richard McCarthy
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:24 PM

    Glad you cleared that up Fred,for the record the 152 hi tec Skoda Octavia 2.0 L TDI combi L@K is one mean machine,best value for money car around bar none,no wonder the taxi drivers at Stansted airport prefer them.

    15
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    Mute Fred Astare Astare
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:36 PM

    Ehhh. I had one, you are right, a great yoke, unfortunately I got it mixed up with my past life as Periguin pointed out the Czech/Russian LADA, which in all honesty were post war cans of proverbial P@ss,

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    Mute molly coddled
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    Dec 12th 2015, 4:30 PM

    What do you call a Lada at the top of a hill?….a miracle.

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    Mute Periguin
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    Dec 12th 2015, 5:51 PM

    Nah, ready to start.

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    Mute Denise Friary
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:39 PM

    That Turdy is a bad example of a man I ever did see.

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    Mute Periguin
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    Dec 12th 2015, 1:42 PM

    I does be always listening in english grammar class and do be doing all my homework.

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    Mute Bart Renolds
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    Dec 12th 2015, 3:18 PM

    Tubbs is rte ‘s love child

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    Mute lavbeer
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:11 PM

    Tubridy is though evidence that we as a people can see the bigger picture and the better future by not holding the actions good or bad of his grandfather against him.

    Long may this continue.

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    Mute Cupid Stunt
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    Dec 12th 2015, 2:29 PM

    His grandad was in the ira but besides that tubs was in fianna fail, and paid hundreds of thousands of Euro for being an apologist for the govt. I’m glad I’ve never bought a tv license.

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    Mute James Keane
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    Dec 12th 2015, 7:45 PM

    Why can’t we get a proper presenter to do our number one talk show. I mean Kenny was ok but tubs is actually embarrassing and this season is his worst yet. D’Arcy actually does a worse job, which is sayin something too.

    11
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    Mute paul kelly
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    Dec 13th 2015, 3:21 PM

    If Ryan turd was a chicken curry….

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