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IN THIS EDITION of our Heritage Ireland series, we discover the magnificent monastic remains at Killeshin in County Laois, we call in to Harry Avery’s Castle in County Tyrone, and we explore Tudor period Ireland at Ormond Castle in County Tipperary.
Killeshin, County Laois
The remains of the monastic site at Killeshin really is one of Ireland’s best hidden gems. It was originally founded in the sixth century by St Dermot, but it was St Comhdan who became the patron of the site.
Killeshin had a turbulent history with many accounts of raids by warring Irish tribes, particularly in the 11th century. It was plundered and demolished in 1041, and it is recorded that Diarmuid, son of Mael na mBó, was responsible. He was lord of the tribe known as the Ui Ceinnsealaigh who were mortal enemies of the Ui Bairrche tribe that held the lands around Killeshin. It is reputed that Diarmuid tore down or ‘broke’ the oratory on the site, killed over one hundred people and took hundreds more as slaves.
More desecration was recorded in 1077, when the monastery was again raided and several yew trees were burned. This was a clear act of defiance and desecration as yew trees were often planted by monks to mark the sacred boundaries of monasteries.
The church that can be seen on the site today was built on the site of the broken oratory. It was built in the twelfth century, in the Romanesque architectural style. Killeshin is one of Ireland’s finest examples of this style of architecture which features rounded arches and highly decorated doorways.
At Killeshin, the doorway is absolutely magnificent. It has four arches featuring carvings of chevrons, zig-zag, animal and foliage design. The capitals of the arches have human faces carved on them with different expressions and some even beards on their faces. Some suggest that use of shallow carvings and different colour stone indicates that this doorway was possibly painted.
There are also two inscriptions carved into the doorway. One inscription is for Cellachan, who may have been the master stone mason or artist on the site. The other inscription refers to Diarmuid Mac Murrough, the King of Leinster from around 1126 to 1171. He is the man who is credited with inviting the Normans into Ireland. It has been suggested that the boundary between the two warring tribes, the Ui Bairrche and Ui Chennselaigh, was incorporated into a new diocese in 1152, and this may have prompted Diarmuid as the King over the entire province to commission this masterpiece of Irish craftsmanship and continental design.
You can find out more about this wonderful site and explore the ruins of other ancient monasteries and sacred sites along the Laois Monastic Way by downloading your free MP3 audio guide from here. Or you can now download direct to your iPhone, Android Smartphone or tablet with a free audio-visual version that comes complete with Google Maps to help you navigate from site to site. Please follow this link for a preview.
Harry Avery’s Castle, County Tyrone
On high ground, just outside the town of Newtownstewart in County Tyrone, you can discover the remains of a once-mighty fortress, known as Harry Avery’s Castle. The castle is important as it is one of the earliest surviving castles built by an Irish lord. It was constructed by Henry Aimhreadh (‘the unsmooth’) O’Neill some time in the middle of the fourteenth century. Henry was a brother to the powerful Earl of Tír Eógain.
He constructed the castle in an extremely unusual way, as it appears to be a hybrid of English castle design, with some features that would only become common in later medieval Irish towerhouses. The castle was constructed as a bulwark in the fiercely contested borderlands between the Ó Néill and the Ó Domhaill, the two great rival dynasties of Ulster. It defended two vital river valley routeways.
The remains consist of the two great towers of the gatehouse keep, and significant earthworks that show where a large polygonal walled enclosure once stood. You can enjoy stunning views over the surrounding landscape from the castle, and it is a very evocative place to visit.
In the nearby town of Newtownstewart, you can visit the later medieval Newtownstewart Castle.
This dates to around 1619 by Sir Robert Newcomen, it was part of the defensive network that protected the Plantation of Ulster, though it was burned by Phelim O’Neill in the Rebellion of 1641, and again by King James in 1689.
As well as the two castles, there are a number of fascinating places nearby, and County Tyrone is well worth a visit if you’re in the area. Harry Avery’s Castle is just over a kilometre south-west of Newtownstewart (and about 15km north of Omagh). Travel along the A5 Omagh – Derry road and take the minor road to Rakelly when you’re in Newtownstewart. You have to cross a field to access the site, so please be sure to close all gates behind you.
Ormond Castle, County Tipperary
Ormond Castle in Carrick-on-Suir, County Tipperary is named after the Butler family, a highly influential and powerful Norman dynasty who became Earls of Ormond. The progenitor of the family in Ireland was Theobald Walter who came to Ireland in the aftermath of the Norman Invasion in the late twelfth-century.
He was rewarded for his service by being granted vast lands in the southeast of Ireland, particularly centred around Counties Tipperary, Kilkenny and parts of Waterford.
He was also given the title Chief Butler of Ireland, who had the honour of personally serving the King on state occasions, and with this came the right to levy his own tax on all wine imports into Ireland – as the Normans were known to like a tipple this ensured that Theobald Walter and his successors became very wealthy indeed!
The castle at Carrick-on-Suir is thought to have been originally built in the 1300s, but the remains visible today largely date to later than the fourteenth century. In the grounds you can see the ruins of a medieval bawn (a fortified walled enclosure), with two tall fourteenth or fifteenth century towers, while the main manor house building dates to the Tudor Period.
The Tudor Period was a turbulent time in Irish history. An uprising by the Butler’s long time rivals, The Fitzgeralds, had just been defeated, and King Henry VIII had become the first English Monarch to declare himself ‘King of Ireland’. He began a process of plantations and conquest that was continued after his death, during the reigns of Mary and then Elizabeth.
Friendship with Elizabeth I
During this chaotic period, Thomas Butler, Earl of Ossory and 10th Earl of Ormond succeeded to his lands and titles in 1546 when he was just 15 years old. Thomas had grown up at the English Court, and was seen as a faithful friend to the Crown. He was a personal friend to the young Elizabeth (and some suggest perhaps their friendship was more romantic than platonic) and he shared a tutor with the future King Edward VI.
Following King Henry VIII’s death, Thomas Butler was present at the coronation of the young King Edward and he was proclaimed as a Knight of the Order of Bath, a very high honour. Following Edward’s death at a young age, he remained at court during Mary’s reign and rose to high favour and prominence when Elizabeth became queen. She named him Lord Treasurer of Ireland, a position that brought great wealth and prestige.
It is said that he had the handsome Manor House of Ormond Castle constructed in preparation for a planned visit by Queen Elizabeth I. However she never journeyed to Ireland to see this splendid building. This building is Ireland’s finest surviving example of an Elizabethan manor house, and many of its architectural styles reflect the English influence.
Originally, its handsome stone walls would have been covered with a plaster render and whitewashed in the fashion of the time. The building faces outwards onto what would have been a large park with a grand carriageway.
Gradually the Butler family began to focus their attention and money on their other residences at Kilkenny Castle and Dunmore House. By the end of the seventeenth century, Ormond Castle was leased to tenants. Gradually, Ormond Castle began to fall into disrepair. It was taken into OPW care in the 1940s, and a long programme of restoration was initiated.
Today you can enjoy a guided tour around this building. The Castle is open free of charge to visitors daily from 6 March to 2 September. You can enter a number of the rooms, most impressively the Long Gallery, and you’ll encounter features like musket-loops, showing a formidable defensive, as well as fashionable, design.
Perhaps most impressive of all is the rare plaster stucco friezes that depict the coat of arms of the Butler family as well as griffins, falcons and portrait busts of Elizabeth I. You can also see impressive grand fireplaces in this stately room that once would have been filled with portraits and tapestries, leaving visitors to Ormond Castle in no doubt about the wealth and taste of the Earl of Ormond.
You can discover more great heritage sites and places on Neil’s blog, Time Travel Ireland.
Neil has also produced an acclaimed series of audioguides to Ireland’s heritage sites, they are packed with original music and sound effects and a really fun and immersive way of exploring Ireland’s past. They are available from abartaheritage.ie.
If you’d like to receive daily updates about great heritage sites then please consider following us on Facebook, Twitter and Google+.
All photographs © Neil Jackman /abartaheritage.ie
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The standard of taxi drivers in this country is shocking. Its an occupation filled by people that could not get a job anywhere else and whose only skills are being able to drive (barely) and complain about ‘foreigners’.
Well a friend of mine recently was in Galway with heavy bags, the taxi driver asked her about them as he was loading , when he heard it was a donation for the women’s refuge, he didn’t charge for the journey , a credit to his profession, take a bow sir, he is a Dub, anyone that knows him say well done .
Jesus you are going on like he cured cancer. He helped a person lift their bags into his cab ( this is their job, you are paying them for it) , and he let her off with a few euro.
Whilst I agree with you about the standard it must be said that there is a minority of excellent, non bitter, non disenfranchised, helpful, funny, reliable ones that put up with a lot. One guy was open enough to take me through the business model and how they make money.
Ace by name , Ahole by nature
A Dub that let someone off with a fare!he’ll be easily found Dubs don’t do stuff like that
You still knocking around Alan b ( b for ballbag )
Keith you’re hilarious you’ve been usuing that joke for the last three years
And yet Irish taxi drivers were voted “THIRD BEST” according to a trip advisor survey! Maybe you should look st yourself and how you behave when in a taxi. Or if you don’t use taxis then you have a sad life to be commenting on something of no relevance to you. What about taxi passengers too….vomiting, urinating in cars or constantly looking for discounts?!
You talk utter scutter..i can gurentee ive more brains in the top of my c than you have in your skull.gimp.
@John Rag Scales: Your spelling and grammar tells a different story. Go on out of that.
Yeah and you’re delighted when one of them stops for you at 3 am when you are sloshed and talking bolox to the driver.Its knobends like you that sickens me.
You’re some ass wipe ace.you really are.
Did you tell him how much you make every week Chris? Frankly it’s none of your business mate! Don’t be asking a Taxi driver personal questions about his earnings ok.
Keith Alan b is a big culshie who dislikes dublin people and he has that small town mentality. Down in mucka land they bail into a taxi (6 of them) and throw the driver 2 eu each.the car is covered in muck after them.
I remember a taxi man refusing to bring me to santry from the airport because he’d been waiting in the kesh for two hours and felt he deserved a better fare. I told him I’d throw him €20 even though it was only a short spin but he was having none of it. Reported him to the taxi regulator and got a letter a few weeks later saying they looked into it and weren’t going to do anything about it. I definitely think the numbers referred for any disciplinary action are only low because the regulator doesn’t go after its own members
Craig…taxi drivers are not “members” of the regulators office. Seriously dobsomevlearning before commenting.
Eh….do some learning
Sounds like your all fella learned you to speak proper
Now now Craig,you are being economical with the truth because he will be put off the rank if he refuses. That is a very strict rule at the Airport Another storyteller.!
Afraid not Gerry! I went and complained to the guy on the rank that radios them up. He was great and professional and sent him off to join the queue again. But that still doesn’t change anything about what I said the regulator did. Didn’t mention either that the taxi man that refused me also told me to go up to departures and get one there. That’s a big no-no as well and I stuck that in my complaint. Nothing done about that either!
Funny you didn’t point that out in your first comment isint it Craig. Only that I brought the rules to your attention. Just get the bus in future because it’s YOU who will create a bad vibe every time you get a Taxi in future.ok. Because you are on standby for a confrontation and that’s wrong,so just find some other way to get around. They don’t need people like you getting into their cabs.
Eh….. No. Kinda seems like your the one looking for a fight. Didn’t think anecdotal evidence in the comments section would work anyone up like this! Unless……. Was it you who kicked me out and got kicked off the rank!? Have you been waiting all these years for your revenge??
Eh no Craig! I wouldn’t let you I to my cab in the first place. And I’m not worked up at all. I just cannot stand fools making stupid comments and telling porkies ok.
Look at ya, after all these years and still refusing me. Old habits die hard. Your some man for one man Gerry. Single handedly defending the honor of an entire industry with just the threats you can make in a comments section . A true warrior of the keyboard.
Got into a taxi yesterday in cork.. The smell the dirt of the car interior. . The driver looked like he had never seen soap and water in 12 months. The car clearly was not in roadworthy condition as it rattled over every bump it hit.. I would be embarrassed if it were mine.
Why didn’t you just get out instead of bitching now about it? More bull.
Taxi business is a jungle…welcome to the jungle baby
Don’t worry the digital economy is sending them the way of the dinosaurs, in ten years they won’t exist
Yeah and at 3 in the morning you’ll have to walk home
I’m going make it clear what actually happens based on my experience and I’ll simplify.
I hailo’d and was in a glass lift above him when he arrived I said I’d see him in 30 seconds. Meaning total wait time for him was 30-60. He drives off with other customer as I’m on phone and hangs up. Phone him loads of lies and excuses.
With a complaint you’ve two options. Court for fine or just a simple complaint where it’s on your record. I complained and was pressured not to take it to court by the NTA. Significant noticeable pressure saying there’s no witnesses.
So when you peel it all away the body that protects us is a laughing stock because in a lot of cases they encourage no court saying there is no evidence and thus no fine and thus no accountability and thus they are weak individually at their jobs for having that strategy and accepting it. It became clear that court was a hindrance against them and didn’t want to pursue and instead said “hey look we’ll give out to them internally and keep it in their record”.
Also while on the phone I told them about another guy with his taxi savailability lights on in a taxi queue who wouldn’t take me from o Connell street to Bally bough. He refused.
NTA said look we rang him he said he was in his lunch not much we can do.
Maybe you could not spend the next 15 mins on YouTube and make a rule that if lights on you have to bring a customer and if not taxis will be penalised.
Instead they specifically said. We’re going to do nothing
Chris
So you wanted to take a taxi driver to court because he left with a different passenger. I mean really??
You weren’t robbed,attacked,or run over.
But you wanted to take him to court??
Get a grip.
Chris
You really need to get a life.
Just mutter to youself what a kant, and go about you’re business , not worth the effort pal. Sounds exhausting
Why don’t you just buy your own car and stop moaning. You seem to have a chip on your shoulder over Taxi drivers. Get over it Nancy.
Racism. Disguising how common it is within the taxi community.
Also if you were wondering about the delays in Hailo of late it’s because of the below from a very open frank and honest taxi driver who told me the truth
- taxi drivers declare their income.
- by virtue of working on Hailo it makes their work be transparent and be a true reflection (or at least mostly true if mixed with street work)
- he said underdeclaring was rampant and Hailo doesn’t allow you get away with it thus they are scrutinised with hailo.
- whilst cab drivers are willing to put up with that in the quieter months why would they go on hailo when in December there’s a load of under the counter work everywhere.
- he said though taxi drivers don’t appreciate the full power hailo has given to them. By that he meant, by paying a 20% fee per job he gets an unlimited supply of work. 20 jobs on a Monday in a row in nearly most months i.e. No more driving around searching for work and hoping while petrol is going up.
- also separately at Xmas he said there’s a another antagonising factor. Most months are fine but at Xmas nights supply of taxis falls far short of demand thus incredible delays.
all obvious stuff but Interesting to hear it from horses mouth.
Chris
The above is utter rubbish and simply not true.
A load of bull.
Some horse. Dosent know what he’s talking about. Hailo take 12% not 20%. There is no call out fee and upto 5 mins free waiting time. All in driver can lose 50% on some fares. Supply is not the problem. Traffic delays, customers messing drivers around and 50% loss on jobs are the problems.
There are approx 26,400 licenced taxis in Ireland and the amount of complaints is less than 800???
Its nothing, why make an issue of it.
@Les J Matt: What we do not know is ho many people had a bad experience and did not make a complaint, and who could blame them with the regulator as ineffective as they are.
Ace….the phrase “caveat emptor” comes to mind. There are p%^cks in every industry. A bit of intelligent thinking and balance would go some way to making your comments relevant.
Uber can’t come fast enough to Dublin…
The ones that feel the need to fill every moment with inane opinions on society, politics and racist statements will very soon find themselves out of work.
could someone explain why they switch of their lights when clearly they are looking for fairs, also most dont go to taxi rank especially late in the evening, and up to xamas they where driving up and asking where people where going, maybe they didnt want to go to far as they would lose out on money, all the taxis need to get a grip you work for the public not the other way around!
So who do taxi drivers complain to about the actions of the public?
Orla Ryan,And decent journalist would have also asked the Taxi driver for his views on the abusive behaviour of passengers and the smell off their breaths,either from alcohol or otherwise.their body odour and continuous nattering on wrecking the drivers head.”HEWYA Mr taxidriver”, Are ye busy tonight? Are ye out long? How much would ye earn each night? Can you give me the fare for a tenner instead of 13eu? Would they ask the barman for discount on a pint?I know what they would be told! So Orla,do your your job properly and stop stirring it. I bet you’re real nice to the Taxi driver when he’s bringing you home safe. I think it’s called being two-faced.
Ahh sure there’s no money it anyways
Yeah those making the complaint were too pissed to remember the exact details.
Also typo in post above was meant to read this is a thread about taxis not guards
Not to mention rogue taxi drivers with nothing better to do than to drive up and down Killiney Hill Road and roar abuse at unsuspecting gardeners.
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