THE EVOLUTION OF Ireland’s relationship with food has blossomed over the last 30 years. Where we were once a nation that survived on simple diets of meat and potatoes, our palettes have developed and become far more adventurous.
Denis Cotter, chef, author and founder of Paradiso, is a leading figure in revolutionising Ireland’s perception and appreciation for vegetarian cuisine. In the early 1990s, having previously worked in banking, Cotter decided to change career path and enter the food industry, as he told The Journal: “I decided I wanted to have my own restaurant and since I was vegetarian it would have to be too.”
He travelled to London and took the first steps towards opening a restaurant by learning how to cook. Upon his return, and a period working in Cork’s Quay Co-op before opening Paradiso, with “the ambition of creating vegetable-based cuisine that was pleasure focused and separate to the health food industry” in 1993. Even in that early era of vegetarianism in Ireland, Paradiso received a warm reception from the people of Cork.
Cotter recalls, “The reaction was good. People seemed hungry for something new. Of course, initially, a lot of people were reluctant to come for dinner – vegetarian lunch they could do – but that changed gradually and it has actually worked in our favour as there are still people in Cork who say they’re going to give it a try one of these days. That’s what you want…an audience that still thinks you’re new 30 years later!”
Today, for a myriad of reasons – health benefits, lifestyle choices – vegetarianism and veganism continue to rise in popularity across Ireland. In a report by Bord Bia in 2021, they found that 8% of Ireland’s population adhered to a vegetarian diet, with 2% switching to veganism.
Cotter notes the continued rise in our changing dietary preferences and the impact our choices have beyond our bodies. “Veganism is booming, and rightly so. It’s the right response from a generation facing a climate crisis. Older people are eating fewer animal products, it seems, and every restaurant has to cater well for vegans now, not just throw on an old bowl of pasta.”
It’s true that the variety of excellent vegetarian and vegan options on menus has greatly improved to meet the demands of our diverse palettes as well as provide a memorable dining experience. Paradiso has always strived to pack as much flavour into their dishes and to present patrons with meals using seasonal ingredients and working with local suppliers.
In the past, vegetables often were reduced to the side portion of a dish. Cotter, however, has been an advocate for creating gratifying and aesthetically beautiful meals with delicious fresh produce. Winter, especially, heralds a period of cooking comforting and nourishing recipes. Cotter’s advice for all levels of home chefs for winter cooking? “My tip for nervous cooks is to learn a simple soup with ingredients you like and learn to adapt it. Also, learn one technique, such as risotto, pastry or a gratin, that can be adapted seasonally and to whatever is in the fridge.”
His preferred ingredients for winter-based cuisine? “Winter squash, or pumpkin, is the big one for me at this time of year. It’s so versatile and makes rich satisfying gnocchi and is great when roasted and used in soups, stews, and curries. Also, turnips, the big yellow swede ones, are almost upon us and that’s the basis of a favourite dish in Paradiso right through the winter months.”
Following on from Denis Cotter’s tips for cooking at home this winter, we asked the founder and executive chef of Paradiso how he likes to spend his free time away from Paradiso.
Down the Local: “I’m biased but Maureen’s in Shandon is my favourite spot for a drink.”
Dream Night Out: “I don’t go out much these days – and never at the weekend – but a perfect long early week evening would feature a good new film at 6pm in the Gate Cinema followed by wine and small plates in Nell’s Wine Bar or pints and tacos in The Raven followed by catching some live music. There are some great new venues doing one-off or weekly events and you’ll find incredible performances at the likes of Myo Cafe, Plugd Records and upstairs in Fred Zeppelins where the music events are curated by the great Andy Wilson.”
Morning off Ritual: “I don’t do coffee or brunch. No joke! I run every few days and usually stick to a route that takes me east past the train station and out past the port where I can take a brief gulp of open space and the sea before heading back into the city.”
Hidden Gem: “Nell’s Wine Bar, though it’s not so secret anymore. At the city end of the Lee Fields, behind the Kingsley Hotel, there’s a spot where the river splits into the two channels that flow through the city. It’s a nice place to stand and think for a minute.”
Weekend Getaway: “Gougane Barra Hotel. I go there at least once a year, take a hike up the mountain, a row around the lake and enjoy the lovely food and hospitality of Katie and Neil.”
To embed this post, copy the code below on your site
have your say