THERE ARE SEVERAL rooftops around the world where you can see amazing views of impressive city skylines scattered with imposing buildings, but how many of those sites date as far back as the 1st century?
In Donegal, you only need to climb 5 metres (once you’ve reached the top of Grennan Mountain) and you’ll find yourself at an extraordinary vantage point where you can observe 5 neighbouring counties, including Tyrone and Derry, along with Lough Swilly and Lough Foyle. Situated in the vast landscape of Inishowen, An Grianán of Aileach stands on top of a hill, just under 250 metres above sea level.
The land upon which the majestic ringfort or cashel is situated has had a long and storied past. There are tales rooted in Irish folklore claiming that the Grianán of Aileach was constructed by a supernatural entity in 1700 B.C.; the Dagda. In pre-Christian Ireland, legends of the Tuatha Dé Danann and the Dagda subsequently went on to name several historic sites across Ireland. The origins of An Grianán have been linked to the Dagda’s legacy as he is thought to have erected the cashel as a burial site for his son.
Another tale woven into the colourful tapestry of An Grianán’s past suggests that the site was visited by St Patrick in the 5th century. Whilst there, it’s been said that he baptised Eoghan, a local chieftain from whom the area (Inishowen) its name.
For several centuries, An Grianán of Aileach – which translates as “The Stone Palace of the Sun” – was a seat for the Northern Uí Néill dynasty. It was occupied by the family between the 8th and 11th centuries. It faced attacks during the Norman invasions and in 1101, it was destroyed by Murtagh O’Brien, the King of Munster. For several hundreds of years, the ringfort was in a terrible state of ruin until the late 19th century.
Today, the structure of An Grianán of Aileach, whilst minimal in its external aesthetic, is extremely commanding as it stands in solitude against the expansive and rugged terrain. You can enter the ringfort from its 2 passageways, inside the 23-meter internal diameter of the grounds there are 3 terraces leading up to the structure’s summit. These levels are made accessible to visitors by the built-in rock steps.
The ability to explore this fascinating landmark was made possible when restorations were made in the late 19th century, which took approximately 4 years to complete, with the aid of a Derry-based physician called Dr Walter Bernard. Every week, in the mid-1870s, members of the Irish Irelanders would make the pilgrimage to the ruins of An Grianán from Derry to work on repairing the historic site. Throughout the rebuild, this group also received assistance from both the Gaelic League and the GAA.
Their hard work brought the ringfort back to life as they replenished the terraces that had eroded and been demolished over time. When the restoration commenced, only the ground terrace of An Grianán remained. In more recent times, it received another restoration in the mid-2000s to reinstate its structural integrity.
An Grianán of Aileach continues to be a popular attraction due to its remarkable history and, of course, the sublime views it facilitates.
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