“THE STORY OF Irish food is the story of its ingredients as well as the people who live here. We try to reflect on both when we put a dish together,” JP McMahon, owner & culinary director at Galway’s Michelin Starred, Aniar, tells The Journal.
In recent years, there’s been a shift from restaurants looking further afield and across the waters for inspiration for their menus and focusing on local produce and contemporary takes on traditional dishes. Aniar restaurant has cultivated an extraordinary culinary offering that demonstrates just how flavoursome Ireland’s foods can be in their seasonal menus.
In putting their own stamp on the story of the West’s different food traditions and techniques, the team at Aniar dedicate a lot of time educating themselves in the overall essence that distinguishes Galway from the rest of the country. This extends beyond mastering the basic elements of running a kitchen to fully immersing themselves in the county’s rich heritage, as McMahon notes.
“Over the years, so much research has gone into the ways in which we compose dishes in Aniar and the ingredients we use. This research has ranged from going out and meeting farmers and producers to foraging for new ingredients to try and represent the landscape that we find ourselves in.”
Opened in 2011, the initial period of intensive research paid off in September 2012, when Aniar received its Michelin star. In the ensuing decade, the restaurant has managed to retain that coveted honour through its attention to detail in its mouth-watering menu and by creating a beautiful environment with the restaurant’s interior design. McMahon describes how having a Michelin star, which requires a lot of work to retain each year, is a great motivator.
“Maintaining a Michelin Star does bring a lot of pressure but it also brings with it an energy to be creative and try and constantly evolve. It does make you want to be more ambitious and keep trying out new things and new combinations of ingredients. Having a Michelin star is akin to playing in the cup final every night at the restaurant!”
The ambition permeating Aniar’s team is perhaps best exemplified in their extraordinary 22-course tasting menu, which is constantly evolving with the arrival of each seasonal heralding a new variety of flavours to work with. This is one aspect of the Aniar experience that McMahon credits as setting it apart from other fine dining spots across the country.
“Aniar is currently the only restaurant in Ireland that only uses ingredients from Ireland to make up its 22-course tasting menu. This means that we don’t use any imported foodstuff; from lemons to spices. We endeavour to give customers a true taste of the terroir of the west of Ireland.”
With the popularity of programmes such as Netflix’s Chef’s Table, McMahon describes how this has provided a catalyst in changing people’s outlook on fine dining. “There’s been a wonderful shift in customers’ expectations. People are growing more adventurous and the Irish palate is changing. Patrons are looking for food experiences as opposed to just food.”
Being part of one of Ireland’s leading restaurants, one that has excited patrons for over a decade, McMahon notes how his work sparks a wonderful sense of curiosity with nature’s surprises. “Everyday we engage with the seasons in unique ways. No year is the same and I’m always amazed at how wild food appears at different times (sometimes earlier or later). Autumn can happen in the middle of the summer; if the winter is mild then it changes what’s available.”
When JP McMahon isn’t enjoying seeing the enjoyment on the faces of Aniar’s patrons, he describes how (and where) he spends his free time with her Night Out, Night Off.
Down the Local: “Usually on a Sunday evening, I like going to Raw Wine in the Universal Bar for some small plates with my partner.”
Dream Night Out: “That would include catching a play in the Town Hall Theatre and a delicious dinner in Kirwan’s Lane Restaurant.”
Morning off Ritual: “I love to have a coffee in Coffeewerk + Press while walking with the dog along the promenade and then brunch in Ard Bia at Nimmos.”
Hidden Gem: “I love The Bunch of Grapes. Though it’s in the centre of Galway, it’s one of the unacknowledged great pubs of Galway. I always have a glass of their German Pinot Noir! They’re also dog friendly which is great.”
Weekend Getaway: “I love Brooklodge in Co. Wicklow. I try to go there at least once a year. Great food, great hospitality and a wonderful place to relax!”
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