GEORGE BERNARD Shaw once said, “There is no sincerer love than the love of food.” For those fond of following recipes to the exact measurements or freestyling traditional dishes at home, the act of cooking can provide immense joy, especially when you see the appreciative reactions and lip-smacking of those eating the results.
Almost 15 years ago, chef Frankie Mallon opened An Port Mór in the picturesque surrounds of Westport, Co Mayo. Since welcoming patrons to dine in the restaurant, it has been lauded for its delicious meals and inventive recipes. On the restaurant’s website, we’re told of the origins of Mallon’s love of food stemming from early experiences tasting eels caught from Lough Neagh and enjoyed whilst staying in his grandmother’s home.
In his multi-award-winning restaurant, the produce is locally sourced to create mouth-watering modern takes on Irish cuisine. As Mallon told The Journal, his finesse in the kitchen has been developed over an incredible career brimming with experience from across the water.
“I first started cooking professionally in Roscoff Restaurant Belfast, under Michelin star chef Paul Rankin. After a year there, I moved to Switzerland for 2 years and then to Paris for 2 years to gain experience working in European kitchens. Then, when I returned to Ireland and settled in Westport, I wanted to bring a casual, French bistro-style menu to the town but using the freshest and best produce Mayo had to offer. That was my inspiration and vision for An Port Mór.”
An Port Mór’s exquisite location along Ireland’s west coast affords Mallon and his team to incorporate the freshest and most flavoursome locally sourced produce. “My idea was to give our customers the best of the Mayo food experience by using the best shellfish, fish and meat products that the county has to offer and combine that with my unique style gathered from my experiences abroad and across Ireland.”
Utilising fresh and seasonal ingredients means that Mallon and his team need to curate their menu daily depending on what is available to them. This requires creativity and the ability to adapt quickly to ensure the finest foods are served to customers. Whilst this can pose challenges in a high-paced environment such as a kitchen and restaurant, Mallon relishes this opportunity for creativity.
“Our daily changing menu gives me and my chefs the freedom and creativity of what’s best available that particular week or month. Of course, this means we never stand still! My favourite season to cook and get inventive with recipes is probably the Summer. The lobsters are at their sweetest and shellfish are in abundance. The menus are light and less fussy then and it’s a pleasure making great salads and dressing during that time of the year.”
The art of running a restaurant, maintaining quality across the food and atmosphere to ensure the best experience for customers, is renowned for requiring hard work and dedication. As Mallon notes, amongst the greatest rewards of his work at An Port Mór is seeing faces return.
“I love to see people coming back to eat in An Port Mór time and time again. In a lot of cases, it resulted in making friendships with people from all over the world from places like California, Australia, Europe and across Ireland. That gives me the most pleasure.”
Having provided Westport with one of its finest spots to enjoy a beautiful meal in An Port Mór, we asked Frankie Mallon how he likes to spend his time away from the restaurant.
Down the Local: “There are quite a few local pubs I like, but the famous Matt Molloy’s (from the Chieftains) which is just across the street from the An Port Mór or Mac Brides bar also on Bridge Street for the perfect pint of Guinness.”
Dream Night Out: “My perfect night out would be to meet up with my family from the North and go to Belfast. The night would start with a drink in the town’s oldest bar, The Crown, and then off to dinner in Stock Kitchen & Bar by chef Danny Miller for some of the best cooking in Belfast.”
Morning off Ritual: “I love going to The Creel Deli for my coffee and breakfast which is situated at Westport Harbour. There is a lovely walk around the harbour overlooking Clew Bay, where you can go sea swimming. It’s a perfect spot in the summertime.”
Hidden Gem: “My favourite place for lunch is a little place on Bridge Street called Savoir Fare. It only has 5 tables so you always want to be sure to get there early so as not to be disappointed. It hasn’t been fully discovered yet, but I have a funny feeling that will not last much longer. It’s going to be very busy!”
Weekend Getaway: “My favourite place for a weekend break is Renvyle House in Connemara, it’s so off the beaten track and the food is absolutely delicious from chef Tim O’ Sullivan. Another great spot I love to go to is the Mulranny Park Hotel in the beautiful village of Mulranny in Co Mayo on the way to Achill Island. It overlooks the ocean and walks along the beach are fantastic. Also, a round of golf nearby on the local course is great fun.”
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