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As part of our election coverage, we sent some of our journalists back to their hometowns to report on the issues concerning the people who live there.
Christina Finn from Bray, Co Wicklow, visited the town to find out what’s gone wrong and right since the last election five years ago – and what people want to see happen after this election.
MY PARENTS, BOTH from Dublin, moved to Bray after getting married in the 1970s. Much like today, house prices were a barrier to where they could afford to live, so the new developments in Bray were attractive to newly married, young couples.
My mother recounts how my grandmother said she couldn’t move to Bray as “that was down the country”. Remember, this was before the N11 and the M50. Our semi-d house at the time was on the edge of town, opposite Ardmore Studios. My mother said she could look out the kitchen window and all she could see were fields and mountains.
Now, it is a very different story.
The seaside town of Bray is the ninth largest urban area in Ireland.
The town, which crosses the Wicklow-Dublin border, has a population of 31,872 (according to the 2011 census).
A seaside town and tourist hub
For decades the coastal location and the transport links to the capital has made it an attractive and accessible spot for tourists to visit. From Victorian times, when Dublin city dwellers would holiday in the town to get the sea air, to modern times, when events such as the airshow attracts up to 100,000 people to the town every summer.
Thousands of people travel to the town for other special events, such as the annual Bray Summerfest, Bray Jazz Festival and the fairly new Groove music festival, located on the beautiful grounds of Kilruddery estate.
Its proximity to Dublin city (about a 30-45 minute drive) has also made it attractive to people who work in the capital. (Over 8,000 people travel to work, school or college by car every day from the town.)
Scene from Groove Festival, Kilruddery House.
Having worked for a local newspaper in the town for a number of years, I reported extensively on the town’s issues and attended council meetings on a regular basis.
In the past, issues of importance raised were housing, homelessness and attracting business to the town. I was interested to see if there had been any progress made in the last five years.
Some people may still have a perception of Bray as being a tacky holiday town, but there’s something dated about this. In the last 20 years the town has come a long way, with new businesses, new offerings and redevelopments - but there are still issues of concern.
The struggle on the main street
Speaking to the locals about what the main issues affecting the town are, there was one common theme: the death of Main Street.
Local man Tony Curran told TheJournal.ie the development of large-scale shopping centres like Carrickmines and Dundrum have sucked the life from Bray Main Street.
Christina Finn / SoundCloud
Meanwhile, two local middle-aged women in the town said the lack of shops in the town is a real problem. They said that Bray used to be a retail hub attracting their parents in from Wicklow to do the shopping. Now, they said, there was little to attract them in.
I don’t shop here anymore. They say people should support their local town, but when you want something, where do you go?
Another local woman said there is one major issue detracting people from coming into the town centre – parking.
The lack of shops and parking in the town is dreadful. I used to love this town, we all did, but I have no interest in it anymore. There’s not a women’s shop in the town… and on Saturday, the town is empty.
However, despite their criticism about the lack of retail offerings, the women said Bray had everything going for it – if it got the right support.
Bray is a lovely place. We are five minutes from the countryside. We have it all in that way. We have the seafront, the views, the mountains – but we have to go elsewhere to shop for things now, that’s just the way it is now.
Keeping their cards close to their chest
Like most Irish people, they keep their political musings to themselves when you ask them outright who they will be supporting in the next election.
I’m voting for none of them. I am sickened at the moment with the government – they don’t really say what they are going to do.
Tony Curran was more open:
I certainly never had a strong favour for any political party, but I can tell you I have no intention to vote for Fianna Fáil after what they did to the country. There is no way. I will never vote for them again.
Finger on the pulse of the town
Located on the Quinsboro Road, the local newspaper in a town always has its finger on the pulse of what the main concerns are.
Senior reporter at The Bray People newspaper, Mary Fogarty, said there are a number of things cropping up every week.
Traffic congestion seems to be pretty bad right now, a downside of the improving economy. There are still quite a few shops closed and rents are high. The Florentine Centre [a long-awaited shopping centre] still has not been built after 20 years, but the council seems to be making some progress though.
Local Fianna Fáil Councillor Pat Vance, who is a shoe cobbler in the town, concurred.
He said the long-time eyesore in the town – the vacant site where the much hailed Florentine Shopping Centre was supposed to be built during the boom times – has now got the go-ahead for development.
Main street businesses struggle, while seafront thrives
David Dunne, co-owner of Twizzlers Sweet Shop on the main street has been in business since September 2015. Previously they had a kiosk for the summer season on the seafront.
Dunne said he has worked in both parts of the town – the main street and the seafront – and has seen how they differ.
He said there is an unnatural split between business on the seafront and the main street, stating that while the seafront is thriving, the businesses in the town centre are still struggling to attract visitors.
To contrast the two parts of the town – the seafront would be very prosperous, it gave us the money to go ahead and open this business. But the contrast of the businesses are unnatural.
Richard Kelly of Richard Kelly Curtains has been in business in the town since 1984. He said he has witnessed the town “come crashing down”.
He said there were no concessions for businesses from the council with rates during the recession, but there was with landlords.
“That Main Street out there has become a real bugbear of mine. There’s no parking.”
He said the close proximity of Carrickmines has hurt his business, stating that parking has become a real problem in attracting visitors to the town.
“There are no shops for women, no shops to attract young people to the town. We have a beautiful seafront, but there is too much focus on it, more focus is needed on the Main Street.”
Despite going through tough times, Kelly admitted there are signs of improvement.
Last year was the first time I saw an improvement in business in years.
‘Things are happening in the town’
Alan Hunter opened Noah’s Ark restaurant and cafe on Main Street six months ago. He said he set up the business here as he could see things were happening in the area.
He believed the town needs more retail to attract people in.
The more people that hear about us, the more people will come here.
A number of new businesses opening on the seafront are bringing in a new clientele to the area, said Hunter, but he would like to see more things done for the centre of the town.
He would like to see some incentives from the council to encourage new businesses to open in the town.
There could be a waiver [of council rates] for maybe a year to help new businesses get on their feet. It is a massive investment for people to open a new business. I would like to see a bit more to spur on business in the town.
Signs of improvement
Hayes Butchers has been in the family business in the town since 1948.
“My father ran the business before me and we took it over about 15 years ago,” said Terrance Molloy.
Things haven’t been too bad since the recession died down a bit. A lot of shops have opened and closed in the meantime, but big shops like Dealz and Tiger have opened, so that has brought a few more people around.
Molloy has noticed an increase in footfall, particularly in the run up to Christmas when the council introduced free parking on Saturdays. This made a big difference, he said.
Moving away from the centre of the town, I made my way down to Bray seafront.
The mile long beachfront promenade dates back to Victorian times. William Dargan, the man who brought the railway to Bray, built the promenade as part of his plan to turn Bray into a popular seaside resort.
Investing in tourism
According the town’s website, Dargan’s endeavour was to make Bray ‘The Brighton of Ireland’.
https://vine.co/v/MnLh6qd2TgZ
In recent times, millions of euro has been spent on improving the seafront, from the coastal erosion scheme to the promenade redevelopment, which included new modern lighting and new seatbacks.
At the moment, more is being invested with the construction of the Bray Cycle Scheme, which will allow cyclists cycle the whole length of the beach, uninterrupted, and connect on to Greystones.
The seafront is a hub of activity, with walkers out everyday, hail, rain or shine. The restaurants and pubs on Strand Road are bustling throughout the week. There is a wide selection of food on offer, from pub grub, to Italian food, burger joints, to brunch.
Gary Cafferkey and Sandra Freney bought the iconic Strand Hotel and pub, which has a historical connection with Oscar Wilde, on the seafront over a year ago.
Cafferkey said Bray has definitely turned a corner – but that building up the hotel and pub business hasn’t been easy.
https://vine.co/v/h1nKnehTuA9
Originally from Mayo, but working in the town for the last 18 years, he has seen the town change a lot over the years, particularly in the last five years.
Bray went through its dark days, but every town in every nook and cranny of the country has gone through its dark days. Bray has come out the other side of that.
‘I couldn’t imagine living anywhere else’
There are a lot of attractions in the town and a lot of hard work put in by businesses such as The Martello, the Porterhouse, Star Leisure, and all the ice-cream shops, which he said are all to be commended.
It has been a real pulling together of different businesses. There is no one single entity that has done it.
I couldn’t imagine living anywhere else… I am definitely a foreigner in the town, but Bray has been good to me. It is a good prosperous town, it just needs a few pushes in the right direction, but it will get there.
Cafferkey said he could see the centre of the town was struggling a bit more and said more shops and the development of the Florentine Centre would be a “massive help” to the town.
I can see the town has suffered a bit, particularly up there [the main street]. The town feels a bit quiet, but there are good stores coming in to the town, like Boots, Tiger, Starbucks, these are the sort of businesses we want to be drawing in.
If he could see one thing improved on the seafront, it would be the harbour, stating that Dun Laoghaire Pier should be the model.
Bray has one of the best promenades in Ireland. Imagine the harbour to match it.
Dockyard No. 8 cafe and restaurant is located at Bray Harbour, beside the well-known Harbour Bar.
Alex O’Sullivan opened the business with his partner, Spin 1038 presenter Lauren Kelly in July 2014. When he first told people he was going to open the cafe, people thought he was crazy.
Bringing the coffee culture to Bray
However, this January he has seen a big increase in business.
Having travelled to Australia and New Zealand, O’Sullivan said he saw the huge coffee culture there and thought it would be a good runner for Bray.
I think Bray is on such a positive curve. I love Bray, I always have. I have always defended it and always stood up for it. You get reminded when you bring people that are visiting from say Australia or wherever, when you bring them down here, you are reminded how much you take it for granted.They say: ‘you have all this on your doorstep’.You go for pints down the Martello or Porterhouse or wherever, and you kind of forget, because you are used to it, you don’t appreciate it.
Spreading success throughout the town
When asked about whether there is a divide in the town in terms of businesses on the main street struggling and businesses succeeding along the seafront, O’Sullivan said he believed it was only a matter of time before everyone feels the benefit.
I think when people start understanding that it can’t be booming down here [at the seafront] like it is, without it starting to creep up the town soon enough.
He said this can already be seen with new businesses setting up shop on the main street and well known brands like Starbucks and Costa opening.
It might be a little bit behind but it is generating, it is moving. Starbucks and Costa are at the other ends of the town, McGettigans have come in, a lot of new things are happening, but it is going to take time for it all to come together.
In terms of where Bray was twenty years ago, to where it is now, O’Sullivan said it has come on leaps and bounds.
“Bray has the ability to be that town that people travel out to,” he said.
If he had one wish, he said he would like to see the harbour dug out so boats can have a marina.
It would be massive money, but it would be great for the area, but it will come in time. People have to be realistic.
Homelessness – an issue for many towns
One issue many businesses mentioned was the drug issue in the town.
Homelessness and drugs is an issue facing many communities across the country, and it’s one that Bray has too. There have been a number of high profile cases that have hit the headlines in relation to homelessness in Bray.
In 2012, homeless man Paul Doyle was found dead outside the entrance to a Tesco Express supermarket on the Quinsboro Road in Bray. He died of hypothermia after sleeping rough in freezing temperatures.
WH Five Loaves helps homeless people in the area and tries to find them housing.
Overflowing housing list
Annette Plunkett from the organisation said there are about 1,100 people on the housing list in Bray. “It’s huge,” she said.
Through fundraising the organisation managed to buy its first house in 2007, housing six men. They have also secured another house that is used as a family unit.
At the moment, they are finalising the purchase of two more houses in the local area.
She said the numbers using their service is hard to quantify. Some are not homeless, but are marginalised.
We don’t ask any questions here. If someone comes in looking for any kind of help, we try and support them in any way we can.
They have a stock of food, give hot breakfasts and dinners as well as supplying sleeping bags and tents if needed.
If we can accommodate their needs, we will, we try.
‘Homeless people travel by Dart to stay warm’
Located beside Bray Dart Station, Plunkett says they get quite a few people visiting them every day. They have health issues and many would have free travel, she explained.
Many of them would get on the Dart in town and travel as far as Wexford on the train and back up again. It is a way of putting in the day and keeping warm, especially in the winter months. They’ll stop off here and get something to eat, a sleeping bag or clothes, we give them that. Some do that on a daily basis.
They talked about eradicating homelessness by 2010, then it was 2016 and now it is 2020 – it’s rising all the time. I know Dublin has a bigger problem than Wicklow, but in the Wicklow County there are as much as 3,700.
Some have come from “horrendous backgrounds of physical and sexual abuse, alcoholism and addiction issues,” said Plunkett.
Getting their life back
She said they have had some some stories where people have got their life back together.
One guy said the following day was his birthday. My sister got something for him out of the shop and wrapped it up for him. This was a real hard lad now, but he started crying when he was given the gift and he said ‘this is the first birthday gift I’ve ever got in my life’. He was 28 years old.
“Nobody wants to be on the streets, but it is not as simple as just giving them a home or a house to live in, they need more supports than that if we are going to tackle this issue.”
The future
Like any urban towns in Ireland, Bray has its issues. The influx of large-scale shopping centres on the outskirts of town has done small businesses no favours and has put real pressure on those trying their best to be competitive and offer something unique.
While there were criticisms that more is needed to be done by government to encourage business to thrive in the town centre, one can’t deny that the seeds of success have been sown in the town.
New artisan businesses are opening their doors and big brands are coming to the town too. Taking a trip home and hearing first-hand what people had to say, the message I hear over and over again is that, yes, it has its issues like many towns around the country, but Bray has come a long way.
Businesses are seeing an increase in footfall and more money in their pockets. However, the locals are correct in saying that Irish towns, which are synonymous around the world for being quaint, friendly and having something special to offer, won’t survive if local businesses aren’t offered the support needed to keep it all going.
While Dublin folk have copped on that Bray is a gem right on their doorstep, businesses are calling for politicians to think outside the box. No local authority wants to cut off vital revenue generated by parking fees, but if it’s killing the footfall in the town, then it at least should be considered.
Many I spoke to are predicting a bright future for the seaside town just a stone’s throw from the city centre. I may be biased – but I really hope that that’s the case.
Bray, geographically is lovely, however the main street is terrible, there is no real shopping hub and it’s strewn with junkies during the day. There are some nice new food spots on the seafront and the harbour bar is great. However the clientele that frequent the martello ruin the seafront at the weekends. They’ve attracted the old Katie gallaghers crowd and it’s putting people off the seafront which is affecting the neighbouring pubs. Both sides of the bridge have problem estates and their residents often cause hassle on the seafront and main street particularly at weekends and during the summer. Bray has a lot going for it but some it’s residents and greedy business people who stunt progression ruin it.
Tolerance of junkies definitely plays a part in it. They ruin the ambiance of the area. like bray, the city centre is ruined with them yet everyone is afraid to tackle the problem. People blame everyone but the junkies. It’s like we have absolute ourselves of our own personal responsibilities
What would you suggest we do – banish them?! There is only one way to tackle the problem and that is with more supports to those people to get off drugs, and community supports to stop other young people getting onto hard drugs.
The traffic going through bray is ridiculous and it all has to funnel over the little bridge at the dargle. Florentines been deserted for years and cinema closed, even the amusement arcades are closed. The place could be great but during the boom any revenue was misspent.
Brays a great spot,something for everyone.If only they could get rid of those arcades,every gangster in the country opened one to clean the dodgy cash and the doormen look like apes ready to pounce.
Bring back the eld 20p snake slide, a coal bag n a boot in the arse from some hippy who hated his job!! Demz were the days
Hahaha yeah good times.
Expected to see the booming business of Fassaroe thieves mentioned in this article… Kip!!
My first real holiday,when I was 10 ( 60 years ago ) was to Bray. I was living in Tyrrellspass then, so it was a great treat to go to the seaside .It was a thriving seaside resort back then. Fond memories of that time.
Traffic into bray is a disgrace. Caused by the lights at Corke Abbey being in dun Laoghaire rathdown but operated by Wicklow, which means neither faction has an interest in actually sorting out that junction with a roundabout, and moving the bus stops there to a more sensible spot outside lidl. No one wants to visit bray if it means sitting in traffic for 20 min to get near the place, florentine centre or no. Town needs an alternative access route over the river from the m11 badly. Again, the unfortunate position of the border means this won’t be easily achieved.
We need to expedite the LUAS and make it more accessible by public transport. More cars in the town will only ruin it and make it more polluted.
As an “outsider” having moved to Bray 5 years ago I was met with sharp intakes of breath when telling people I was moving to Bray. I don’t regret it for 1 minute.
A fantastic seafront, bars, cafes, 5 supermarkets for choice, cliff walk, Bray Head and Wicklow, 10 mins to Wicklow mountains, 40 mins to Dublin on Dart.
All in all a great town which isn’t perfect, like any other town in Ireland.
It’s only getting better from what I see too
I agree – Bray is just getting better and better. What brings people in are the new artisan cafes and restaurants. It is a massive mistake to believe that we can compete with Dundrum or Carrickmines – the emphasis should not be on this new shopping centre – a developer-led development of the kind we are used to in Ireland, where the council have to pick up the tab for a site abandoned by a developer. It will only suck further the life out of the Main Street, which already has empty shop units. Nobody will come to Bray for the Florentine Centre. Instead we should do what towns like Margate did, which was to deliberately focus on their strengths – the architectural heritage etc – and go for artisan shops – food and otherwise – because people will stay in Bray or come to Bray to spend money on that – but they will never come to Bray to shop instead of Dundrum. Dun Laoghaire shopping centres are a case in point. We have to be realistic.
Also, that design if it destroys any more old buildings on the Main Street or Florence Road, will further destroy the architectural heritage that makes Bray so special and so worth visiting.
Crumlin on sea!
Bray holds a very special place in my heart , I spent many a summer holiday there when I was little, and last year I returned after 15 years, I brought my four year old it was like going back in time, lovely little sea side , I noticed the village it self was packed, lights a nightmare and parking dreadful but it was booming and that was the last Friday in August,
Have to disagree with comments made. Ive grown up here and love the town, despite the odd scobe and influx of the aforementioned during the summer. Never felt bored growing up; plenty of rec space, the beach, arcades, observing spaniards sitting on wyvern, etc. Now im 19 I appreciate the nightlife on the seafront, namely the harbour bar which has trad music all week and free comedy/music on the weekends. I never did understand the aversion towards Bray and continue to.
Bray’s problems are due to its proximity to the city centre, why would people shop locally when Dundrum is 20 minutes away and town is 35/40. However Bray’s strong points are also due to its proximity to the city, what other town in Ireland has Dublin Bus, Dart and commuter rail whilst not even being in the same county as said city.
Too bad they got rid of smyths last year though. Its very boring living in Bray. Not much things for kids and teenagers to do except go to school
It’s no different than any other area except it has bray head, beach and harbour. What else do kids need ?
Wifi
I welcome the demise of that tacky shop! I think Bray needs to focus on artisan shops that suit its cultural heritage, not trying to attract the big stores – nobody is ever going to come to Bray instead of Dundrum for the big shops – but they would come for a place that has artisan shops and great places to eat and a heritage atmosphere. Instead, we seem intent on tearing down the lovely old buildings on our Main Street.
“The sunken c–t of Ireland” as Joyce described it.
This election is a joke. No one should be allowed to vote unless they have a masters in either law or economics. You wouldn’t let a bad mechanic fix your car so why let an uninformed person vote?
Democracy not your thing then Anthony
Nothing stopping anyone getting a masters in economics if they want to make decisions which affect the economy of the country. Just because you have to pass a driving test doesn’t mean you don’t have the right to drive, same principle.
Nothing except money Anthony.
If you can’t find a way to make enough money to go college maybe you shouldn’t be involved in decisions relating to the country’s finances?
It’s not all about the economy
Fear Uisce we’re not electing them to scratch their balls and drink free pints in the Dail bar.
@Anthony, Governments also have to look after social issues and provide money for this. If it was simple economics there wouldn’t be an issue and the country could be run as a business by disregarding the people. By your logic we could outsource our country to India and China as it could be run cheaper there but we can’t move an island!! Instead of a masters I would suggest that you start off with some more basic reading first.
I’m afraid Anthony, I know plenty of people with degrees and I wouldn’t trust any of them to run a bath, never mind a country.
I live in Bray born and raised. Great place all together. But needs help in funding for it to be all it can be. I.e full time fire service and the main street to have NO CLOSED SHOPS.
Bray is not so bad Christina.they say their mainstreet is dead but try living in arklow. The only thing you’ll see is traffic
Hello Miss. Finn, you left out the thriving “Wicklow Wolf” Craft Brewery, at formerly the Molloy’s bakery, to the rear of the coffee shop on Quinsboro Road.
It’s great to see the Wicklow Wolf Craft Brewery doing well, I am a big fan it myself. We covered their story last year actually. You can read more here if you’re interested: http://businessetc.thejournal.ie/beer-wicklow-local-beer-1772150-Nov2014/
And also the many artisan Italian cafes and restaurants that have sprung up. Bray has become a foodie destination and that is what we should be building on.
What is this recovered state you talk of? Everyone walking around with gold rolex’s and knee deep in P***y? There never was a celtic tiger idiots. There was lower taxes however. All middle class and upper middle should rise up against this crippling left movement.
Get a grip, you’re raving.
That was to Gavin.
I used to travel there to work at Dell years ago, always thought it was a miserable depressing place personally.
Must be a while since you were here – check out the Harbour Bar, Carpe Diem or Caffe Letterario – all artisan Italian cafes and restaurants that have opened recently.
Bray is an out and out kip. I went to school there and worked there for many years. Never go back there if I can avoid it
It has really changed in recent times and become a bit of a gourmet artisan destination with food. Check it out.
I work in Bray and am on the main street most days for a short spell. I’m sorry to be so finicky but the article is incorrect regarding the lack of shops on the main street. There are at present 3 womens clothing shops and two shoe shops as well as one menswear retailer and a Dunnes Stores on the main street. There are a further two womens clothing shops on adjacent streets less than 30 seconds walk from the main street. As a Balbriggan resident I look at Bray main street as a thriving shopping area!
Traffic is a huge issue for Bray. It’s crippling the town. I’ve lived here all my life and the traffic is so bad that I would rather drive to Dundrum to get something being assured of a parking space then sit in half an hour of traffic trying to get down Main St. For starters there is far too much green time for Lower Dargle Road and Corke Abbey- and that’s just the tip of the iceberg. Do none of the councillors commute outside Bray? Castle street and the Dublin Road are at a virtual standstill no matter what time of the day- even at the weekends- are they blind??
Indeed, since we cannot destroy our cultural heritage to make bigger roads, we need shuttle buses that go into the centre and to push to get the LUAS soon. The traffic choking up the place makes it very unpleasant and polluted.
Anyhoo, Bray. a great destination since the DART was put out there back in the Mid-80′s, the Seafront was unmatched in the Dublin area…
The Bray Head Hotel to the Harbour Bar and everything in-between, brilliant!
The Main Street however, always seemed grey and dull, a collection of old-fashioned shops stuck in the 1980′s, the Copy&Paste shops like Costa and Starbucks, and also McDonalds won’t drag people out from the seafront area… Though the Mermaid Arts centre has some great acts on now and again…
The traffic doesn’t help either, constant bumper to bumper and having to walk on narrow footpaths, not very pleasant..
Maybe build an underground/multi-storey carpark somewhere off the main street as having to dodge cars, half of them parked up on the path would put me right off..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ii7nw1gUE6Q
That is all.
It could do with a couple of decent restaurants! Other than that is was a great place to grow up. Very strong community feel to it. Like everywhere it has its knackers but sure they grow out of it eventually. If only the Main Street didn’t die a very slow death if still be living there but sure that is the counsellors and bray town planning departments fault I guess. They seem to have made a balls of everything.
What about Carpe Diem and Campo de Fiori (artisan Italian food); Caffe Letterario (artisan Italian food); the Dockyard; Daata Tandoori with its regional Indian specialist food. Is it a long time since you have eaten in Bray?
The place is a kip due the disproportionate number of criminal drug dealers and skangers eho infest what onetime may have been a picturesque town. I lived there for 5 miserable years next door to one of those criminal families and our lives were made into hell on earth. In the 80′s the Concerned Parents against Drugs did a great job in inner city Dublin by moving drug dealers out, unfortunately they relocated to Bray. I apologise to the good citizens of Bray.
You obviously lived in a bad spot, but Bray is great these days, with lots of new artisan eating places and a great alternative vibe.
have your say