BOLOGNESE IS ONE of the greats of the food world, not just in terms of Italian cooking, but in general.
The traditional meat sauce, or ragù alla bolognese as it’s known as in Italy, is a slow cooked sauce containing meat, soffrito (that’s sautéed carrots, onions and celery), wine and tomatoes.
When made well, there are few dinners more satisfying. But what makes the best version? Tough question. There are many schools of thought about almost every element that goes into a bolognese.
From the type of meat – or meats – used, to the tomatoes, there is no one size fits all recipe. And many extras like garlic, herbs or Worcestershire sauce are viewed as a sin by bolognese purists.
So is there a right way to make this home kitchen classic? We asked some of Ireland’s top chefs to weigh in…
1. The meat
Or meats… since in many traditional recipes, a mixture of meats are used. Ian Daly, head chef at Dunboyne Castle Hotel & Spa in Meath, suggests browning your meat in a non-stick pan with no oil, allowing for a richer flavour when the pan is deglazed with a dash of red wine.
Beef and pork are common combinations when it comes to a bolognese, and cookbook author Neven Maguire uses just this combination in his signature ragù:
The secret is using half beef and pork mince, and then frying some bacon lardons at the beginning for extra flavour.
Gary O’Hanlon of Baxter Storey Ireland, sears the meat first to render down any fat, and opts for a slow cook for two or three hours, seasoning as he goes.
2. The sauce
First things first- the tomatoes. Tinned tomatoes work perfectly well here and are most definitely a convenient option, but if you have some extra time, make like Ian Daly and ditch the tin for roughly chopped fresh plum tomatoes – a great way to add a really fresh flavour and rustic element to the finished dish.
Making your sauce from scratch rather than buying a jarred version means you can add in as many (or as few) extras as you like. Head chef at Harvey’s Point in Donegal, Chris McMenamin, uses his homemade sauce as a vehicle for hiding veggies. Just whizz it in a food processor or blender when it’s all cooked.
3. The variety of pasta
Yes, the dish may commonly be known as spaghetti bolognese, but it appears the use of spaghetti divides opinion.
O’Hanlon of Baxter Storey Ireland recommends tagliatelle or pappardelle, not just because it’s apparently more traditional, but because the flat shape suits the thick sauce:
The key is a cut of pasta that allows plenty of sauce to coat and one that brings deep texture to the dish, so for that reason I avoid spaghetti.
That said, there are plenty of chefs who opt for spaghetti. TV chef Shane Smith serves his spag bol sharing style, in a large bowl so everyone can help themselves. To stop the spaghetti from sticking together and also add another layer of flavour, Smith tosses it in a little butter before serving.
4. The added extras
Aaron Carroll, group head chef at Oliver Dunne Restaurants, uses caramelised garlic in his bolognese, made by gently sautéeing it along with some onion until it turns golden brown.
Although the Italians may not agree, garlic can add an extra layer of flavour to a bolognese sauce. “I once worked with a brigade of very passionate Italian chefs but I soon learned that my interpretation of a bolognese sauce and theirs greatly differed, ” says Carroll.
While I do like the traditional recipes with no garlic and no herbs, I think my heart is still in the wet tomatoey and garlicky versions served up in Lusk in the mid-90s!
5. The cheese (only on top, mind)
All the chefs polled agreed that using a good quality Parmesan was key for an authentic spag bol. Gareth Mullins, executive chef at The Marker Hotel in Dublin, uses a 24-month aged version – if stored correctly, Parmesan keeps for much longer than other cheeses, so you’ll get return on investment.
Food stylist Jennifer Oppermann adds leftover Parmesan rinds at the start of her bolognese cooking process, giving an umami element to the sauce. But remember to remove them before serving!
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