KILKENNY IS KNOWN for many things from its striking medieval architecture to the many brilliant annual arts festivals held in the city.
Along with a great appreciation of all things creative, Kilkenny is also known for the production of delicious alcoholic beverages, specifically red ales. The longstanding tradition of brewing in Kilkenny was established over 800 years ago by the Francisican Monks and continues today from a new generation of innovative artisan makers.
One such integral influence in Kilkenny’s brewing industry was the Sullivan family. Their presence in the city, in this regard, began in the 18th century when they opened The Maltings in the city centre. There, they produced ale which would not only quench the thirst of locals but of beer drinkers across the pond.
Megan Sendall, manager at Sullivan’s Taproom in Co Kilkenny, tells The Journal the story of the Sullivan’s initial imprint on the brewing industry and how it was reinvigorated by another prominent Kilkenny beer dynasty, the Smithwick family.
Sendall notes, “The Sullivan’s opened for business over 300 years ago on James’s Street in central Kilkenny City, and in its heyday it was exporting to the USA, Australia and across Europe. They fell on hard times in the early 1900’s, becoming a dormant brand. The Smithwicks’ Brewery marched on until 2012 before it relocated to Dublin, effectively all brewing came to an end in Kilkenny.”
This pause on a prominent part of Kilkenny’s industry in the mid-2010s left a significant gap in the overall feeling of the city, Sendall explains.
“It led to a long felt nostalgia in many of the people of Kilkenny, given that the city was such a central point of the brewing industry for many generations. Sullivan’s was relaunched in 2016, and the Taproom was built on John Street in central Kilkenny. With that, there was a focus on brand growth locally and overseas. It’s only now that Sullivan’s are building our first brewery, which is currently being fabricated in Hungary and will arrive in Kilkenny November 2023. It’s nothing short of a dream come true for Dan and Alan Smithwick, who have been working towards this for many years. It will be a source of huge pride for us all at The Taproom. Having this in Kilkenny means everything to us!”
The connection between the Sullivans and Smithwicks dates back to over 100 hundred years ago and involves a bet that went terribly wrong. Sendall shares the extraordinary story that bound these families and how, today, the current generations were motivated to rejuvenate the legacy of the brand and to perpetuate Kilkenny’s brewing legacy and global impact.
“An end to the Sullivan family’s brewing dynasty came about in August 1918, when Richard Sullivan’s great grandson placed an enormous bet at Deauville Racecourse on his own horse. On that fateful day in France, “Handcuff” failed to get a race placement, and the Sullivan’s fortune was lost. Forced to honour the debt, within a year the brewery had to be sold to the Smithwick Brewery.”
Sendall continues, “Sullivan’s was relaunched purely because of the proud brewing history of Kilkenny, and the heritage and providence of a once great brewing family. On his mother’s side, Alan Smithwick, one of our founders, is a Sullivan (of the brewing line) and both he and Dan Smithwick have long dreamed of relaunching the brand, with the ultimate dream to bring brewing back to Kilkenny. Their passion for both their city and the beer industry was the driving motivation to relaunch the brand.”
The passion behind Sullivan’s brewery is paying off, despite the challenges presented throughout the Pandemic, Sendall notes. “We’re all wildly optimistic about our future. Having launched in Buffalo in 2017 as our export focus, we’re now in 40 states and will be nationwide by the end of 2023. We’re the biggest independent Irish brewing company in the US. Elsewhere, we are now in 9 countries, and have recently shipped a container to Japan. It’s very exciting stuff. We brew traditional, well balanced beer, and there’s a huge international diaspora out there that seek Irish products such as ours out.”
The demand for delicious Irish beers is, naturally, sought after at home, as well. Sullivan’s Taproom is a perfect spot to go to enjoy their mouth-watering menu and extremely refreshing selection of Sullivan’s beers. As we enter the Summer months, with the sun hopefully making its long awaited return, the vibrant and spacious beer garden at The Taproom is an idyllic setting for fun nights with friends.
Since opening its doors to locals and tourists, Sullivan’s Taproom has been an excellent addition to Kilkenny’s already buzzing atmosphere. Sendall describes some of her favourite things about the city centre and the overall allure that brings tourists, in particular, back to the exuberant county.
“Definitely the amazing nightlife, restaurants and incredible history along with really sound locals,” Sendall says. I love how easy it is to get around the city, as well. There’s so much crammed into walkable distances. Kilkenny hosts so many incredible festivals including Savour, Roots, Yulefest and more recently a Brewfest here at the Taproom.”
So, when Megan Sendall is off the clock and able to enjoy some of the the brilliant things Ireland has to offer, we asked her how she likes to spend her Night Out, Night Off.
Down the Local: “Hands down it has to be Tynan’s.”
Dream Night Out: “Honestly, I don’t get out much but I’m really wanting to try out Indique on St Kieran’s Street. They’re an award winning Indian restaurant which I’ve heard is unreal. Having met a few of the guys that work there I’d say their service is top notch, too. I’d follow that off with some live music over at Ryan’s Bar for pints on Friary Street.”
Morning off Ritual: “House of Pretzels has amazing coffee and a huge selection of fresh sweet & savoury pretzels to choose from. They’re based in Market Cross which is a good starting point before getting some shopping in. Kilkenny Castle Park is also great for a relaxing walk.”
Hidden Gem: “We’ve been told so many times by people that they had no idea Sullivan’s Taproom existed as we’re tucked in from John Street, which is lined with other amazing bars, restaurants and cafes and are so delighted to have found us. Aside from ourselves, I don’t think people know how amazing The Brewery Corner on Parliament Street is. They also have incredible beers, craft cocktails and food along with really sound and knowledgeable people working there.”
Weekend Getaway: “I moved over here from Liverpool, with my Kilkenny-native partner in 2017 and immediately bought a copy of Ireland’s Lonely Planet to get to know the place. I couldn’t even begin to work out how many miles we put on the motorbike seeing the country! There are so many beautiful places in Ireland. We lived in Cork for 4 years before moving to Kilkenny which is home to my favourite place in the world; Nohoval Cove. It’s a stunning small cover with sea arches, great swimming, cliff walks and sometimes seals. It’s only a short spin from the city which, of course, is packed with amazing bars and restaurants.”
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