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IN THIS EDITION of our Heritage Ireland series, archaeologist Neil Jackman guides us down a cave with a dark history in County Kilkenny, to a secluded prehistoric tomb in County Waterford, and to a castle on the shores of Lough Gill in County Leitrim.
Dunmore Cave, Co Kilkenny
Dunmore Cave is located approximately 11km north of Kilkenny City, near Castlecomer. The cave contains around 300m of known passages and caverns. In terms of geology, Dunmore Cave is a rare example of a cave that was formed directly by glacial meltwaters.
Although not a particularly large cave system, Dunmore has a number of great examples of calcite formations like stalagmites and stalactites. However my interest in the cave comes from its dark history.
Located in the north of Co Kilkenny, in a region of the ancient Irish kingdom of Ossory, Dunmore Cave was situated right in the middle of a stomping ground between the Viking powerbases of Dublin, Waterford and Limerick. The Vikings of Ireland were not one people with a united ambition and government, but were instead rival powers who regularly came into conflict with each other.
The cave at Dunmore has a chilling story to tell. The Annals record that over 1,000 people were massacred here by the Vikings. It is said that the Vikings from Dublin were en route to attack rival Vikings at Waterford circa 928 AD. They raided the surrounding land and found that a large number of people (mainly women and children) were hiding in the cave at Dunmore.
In an attempt to drive them from the cave, they lit large fires hoping that it would force those taking shelter to flee the smoke so that they could be easily captured and sold in the slave markets. However the fires were too large and burned all the oxygen in the deep cave with many suffocating to death. Antiquarians in the 18th and 19th centuries collected large quantities of human remains from within the cave, presumably those of the poor people who were massacred in that raid.
It appears that some Vikings returned to the site later to conceal their wealth. In 1999, a small hoard of silver and copper-alloy items was discovered in a cleft deep in the cave. The hoard was dated to 970 AD. It consisted of silver ingots and conical buttons woven from fine silver.
These precious objects were found with a luxurious silk garment. The dye that coloured the garment purple was reserved for the highest ranking members of society, and it was derived from the purple murex snail that can only be found on the north coast of Africa, evidence of the incredible trading network of the Vikings. Perhaps the owner of the hoard concealed it there, hoping that the cave’s dark reputation would keep it from prying eyes, but they were never able to return to retrieve it. It is also possible that they left it as an offering to chthonic (subterranean) gods or spirits.
Today Dunmore Cave is a really rewarding place to visit with a fine visitor centre. You can find information about opening hours and entry fees here.
Gaulstown Dolmen, Co Waterford
There are over 170 dolmens (also known as portal tombs) recorded in Ireland. Geographically they are more common in the northern half of the island, with some clusters in the south-east and in the west. Portal tombs may be one of the earliest of Ireland’s megalithic tomb types, and a forerunner of the more complex court tombs.
Typically a portal tomb is a simple chamber formed of upright stones, with a large capstone. A mound of earth would then have covered the tomb.
The Gaulstown Dolmen likely dates to some time around 3,500 BC. It is situated in a wonderfully atmospheric wooded glade at the base of a steep slope known locally as Cnoc na Cailligh (The Hill of the Hag). It really is one of the finest examples of a portal tomb in the region and well worth a trip.
You’ll find the tomb roughly around 7km south-west of Waterford City. Follow the R680 from Waterford city towards Kilmeadan. At Tramore crossroads (signposted for Tramore) turn left onto the R682. Continue along this road, driving through the first set of crossroads until you reach a second set of crossroads. Turn right here and continue down this road (you will drive straight through another crossroads) and the site will be on your left.
It is signposted, but you can easily miss it as a large modern gate blocks the laneway to the site and makes it look like the entrance to a private residence. Be sure not to block the gateway when you park your car to the side of the large gate. Access to the site is through a pedestrian entrance to the side of the gate, follow along the short path to find the site.
Parke’s Castle, Co Leitrim
Parke’s Castle is beautifully positioned on the edge of Lough Gill on the border between counties Leitrim and Sligo. The castle originally dates to the 16th century. It was a stronghold of the O’Rourkes who were the traditional Kings of Bréifne, an ancient Irish kingdom that at its height covered an area the size of Co Leitrim with parts of Sligo, Cavan and Westmeath.
The original castle would have been a tall towerhouse, surrounded by a walled defensive area known as a bawn. The O’Rourkes were famed for their hospitality and were celebrated patrons of poets and bards. However it was their hospitality that led to their ruination and to the loss of their stronghold on the shores of Lough Gill. When storms wrecked the Spanish Armada in 1588, one of the Spanish officers, Captain de Cuellar, was given shelter in the castle by Brian na Murtha O’Rourke.
On his return to Spain, he wrote a book, detailing his experiences and adventures with the O’Rourkes, and expressed his gratitude to the family. Unfortunately for the O’Rourkes, the English court took a keen interest in Señor de Cuellar’s publication and promptly arrested Brian na Murtha O’Rourke. He was brought to London to the court of Queen Elizabeth I and was ordered to apologise, which he steadfastly refused to do. He was found guilty of high treason, and was hanged at Tyburn in 1591.
As further punishment, the O’Rourkes forfeited their lands. The estates became subsumed for redistribution to loyal English settlers, like so many other great Irish estates in the years following the Flight of the Earls and the aggressive policy of plantation. The lands became the property of Captain Robert Parke.
The O’Rourke tower house was demolished and its stone used to construct the current castle building that we have today, which was more fashionable at the time. They continued to live in Parke’s Castle until the early 18th century.
Today Parke’s Castle is under the auspices of the Office of Public Works, and you can enjoy a tour of the site, which also contains exhibitions and information on Irish rural life throughout the centuries. For more information on opening times and entry fees please visit here.
You can discover more great heritage sites and places on Neil’s blog, Time Travel Ireland.
Neil has also produced an acclaimed series of audioguides to Ireland’s heritage sites, they are packed with original music and sound effects and a really fun and immersive way of exploring Ireland’s past. They are available from abartaheritage.ie.
If you’d like to receive daily updates about great heritage sites then please consider following us on Facebook, Twitter and Google+.
All photographs © Neil Jackman /abartaheritage.ie
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Can’t get Staff?? Paying them with their own Tips. Pure Greed.
Slight error. Legislation is to be passed, to try ensure tips given to staff, actually get to them.
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This is 100% welcomed by many and rightly so. Credit due here where it’s due.
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The bad news is that the government has chickened out of doing away with “Service charges” that are stuck on the purchase of tickets.
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Additional Service Charge add ons, have been banned by other European countries – mainly because (a) actual staff don’t get the money sent and, (b) A lot of the time it’s computerised ticket processing, little or no staff actually involved.
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In other words, the sellers get to profit twice for the same one sold item. #RipOffIreland allowed to continue. General public left exploited. Ticketmaster, etc, wins.
@Jeff Rudd: was in a Spanish restaurant last night. They added a service charge to the meal of about 10%. Happens everywhere.
@Dave Connolly: In that case, you were robbed. In some EU countries they have been already outlawed. As regards Spain, google a news report by Paula De Biase, Jan 28th 2022. These charges do not apply everywhere.
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This was seen (and mentioned by media) in contrast, regarding the selling of recent Bruce Springsteen tickets. It was pointed out that Italy and other EU states had done away with their ticket service charges – while In Ireland they were still allowed to be applied.
@Dave Connolly: Service charge tips are indeed, still allowed to be added to meals – as long as the staff get them. A “Service charge” on a ticket is not legislated for in Ireland even though the companies make out this is because of staff work done – whereas it’s software automated most of the time. In other words, an extra slap-on charge for the companies to even more profit.
Tipping good service in a gastro pub or restaurant, is an important part of the service industry. Without tipping, there is no incentive for staff in providing an excellent experience. Otherwise you will get basic service as if you are in a diner or your work canteen. Nobody wants this on a night out. Service in restaurants in the better restaurants is top class, because of the tipping culture. Tipping should not be automatic or mandatory. It should only be the customers choice.
@John Costello: but if the mission was to incentivise staff would you not tip them before your meal instead of after it? After all they don’t know if you are going to leave a tip at all. That doesn’t offer much incentive.
Can anybody explain to me why restaurants apply a service charge to tables of 6 or more? The argument that this is due to the extra work involved with a large party does not make any sense as the same 6 people seated as 3 tables of 2 would be less efficient (i.e. greater service required) and yet would not attract the group service charge.
@Kevin Collins: That’s a good point! I often wondered about that myself.
@Kevin Collins: turn around of tables
Small table pax stay on less
Larger groups stay longer
@Mark Walsh: hmmm I suppose that explains it alright. I’d still think larger groups spend proportionally more – if you calculated it on a per minute, per square metre basis that is.
@Kevin Collins: if there was 3 tables of 2 all with a €60 bill then normally they would leave a €10 tip each bringing it to €30 tip –
But one table of six with a €180 bill and no SC would round bill to €200 leaving only a €20 tip.
Why do people tip, i never do, their getting payed for the work they do if they want to work for slave wages that’s their problem
@Noel Donohue: I hate this tipping “culture”. But it’s an excuse to underpay staff. I really hate it in the states where they tell you how much you are tipping them.
@Noel Donohue: You’re a real prince.
@Noel Donohue: I didn’t know it was Christmas already…..You complete and utter GRINCH
Hello Mr. Pink
@Noel Donohue: When you are out do people realise they are in the presence of greatness themselves or do you tell them?
Spolit little lad I would imagine.
@Noel Donohue: poor spelling aside, that’s a very dim comment.
@Noel Donohue: I’ve never heard of anyone who wanted to work for slave wages. You know jack**** about their circumstances but still feel the need to put them down on this forum.
@Noel Donohue: Lots of people out there on great salaries having put themselves through college who made ends meet in their student days working in the service industry relying on tips.
@Noel Donohue: because they want to. Nobody is forcing you too give any either.
@Noel Donohue: well Noel’ I hope you kids when they are trying to go through life and maybe end up in the service industry won’t be serving tools like yourself
Lots of genuine decent intelligent people tip
We know where you stand in the above rankings
@Noel Donohue: I hope you inform the staff at the start of your meal that you not believe in tipping
In many nordic countries, service is included in the price you see on the menu. A tip is only encouraged if you were satisfied with the service.
A stark contrast to the United States, where staff live off the tip.
@Finn H. Schoyen: I worked as a waiter many years ago in Boston. My wages were crap but weeks I’d be clearing nearly a $1000 in tips. It was crazy.
@John Barry: you must have been working in Hooters!
@John Costello: research shows tipping does not improve service. I suggest you watch https://youtu.be/q_vivC7c_1k
The industry needs to pay its staff properly.
We wouldn’t expect to tip any other industry to just get good service, instead we just expect good service for the money we pay. Do you go to clothes shops or dentists and tip for good service?
Trade unions are the answer. American workers on pittance wages are fighting back and the same can be done here.
25 years later the government wakes up to realise that it is wrong for employers to dip into their staff tips. There is slow change and then there is standing still until someone pushes you. A complete joke
@Radek Warchola: exactly. 35 years ago it was happening when I worked in hospitality. Its shocking how slow this is
@Dearbhla O Reilly: legislation to protect hospitality workers and nurses specifically should be drafted and presented to the government and the president for signing. The abuse in the sector is shocking. And the goverment does nothing.
Will this cover food delivery apps such as deliveroo? Hopefully it will
@Decky Morgan: Yes, service charge will be changed to delivery charge
@Mick Hyland: but will that delivery charge go 100% to the rider? If not, what percentage do they get?
@Decky Morgan: if you tip a delivery rider in cash that goes to the rider. If you add it on to paying by card It likely doesn’t. Pay in cash.
I cannot believe this is still happening.
I think set service charges should be banned as it should be at the discretion of the customer. I always tip but prefer to give it seperately from my bill
I always ask the staff does the service charge go to them as a tip. If it doesn’t I have it removed and tip them in cash. Alot of places out there where it doesn’t go them so just ask.
I always tip but always ask if staff get tips if not its straight into the hand of staff that attended the table..
Was in a restaurant in Dublin on Monday night and they now have the cheek to just include the gratuity on the bill automatically…
Is this new law not just then ensuring that the employees all get taxed on their tips?
@Sarah Lou: should they not be taxed on income?
I, like a lot of others, get taxed on every red cent I make.
@Caoimhghin Whyte: Oh wow thats amazing, I myself as a self employed individual am tax exempt on all fronts….. m*ppet
While its good for the staff to get the tips directly, it should have always been this way. Now it will actually happen. Good out of the box thinking here for a change
Fairly shocked this happens.I worked in bars and restaurants when I was in school and the staff got the tips
Restaurant staff in general in this country earn decent wages, most kitchen workers do not receive tips as they are generally divided between the floor staff, maybe this is something that restaurant owners should monitor. Some senior chefs come out with less money during the high season than some of the floor staff because of this.
Service charges are a joke and they should not be allowed except when booking a table for more than 8 people and it should only be used as a reserve on a table, at that they could easily be renamed.
Ask Adrian he is on the radio all the time spouting muck about staff shortages. No wonder.
Please note all CC tips, that you think are going to the waiter are not. The government received 21% of it.
Tips received by Electronic payments are classed as revenue & taxed again by way of the employees wages PAYE System . Leo should sort out this also as it might entice experienced staff back. Service charge is a smoke screen.
Tip in cash if feel your server deserves it. They won’t forget your face the next time.
have your say