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AS IT IS the 1,100th birthday of Waterford this year – going by the date of its foundation by Viking invaders in 914 – we are bringing back Neil Jackman’s superb guide to the historical treasures of the city.
It might inspire you to take a little trip – or if you’re in Waterford, remind you of the stunning heritage on your own doorstep.
For special events happening to mark the anniversary, it’s worth checking Waterford1100.com.
From its foundation by Vikings, Waterford has played a hugely important role in Ireland’s story and today you can experience a thousand years of history in a thousand paces by visiting the three sites that make up the Waterford Museum of Treasures in the Viking Triangle.
The first of these sites is Reginald’s Tower, once described by the famous Irish patriot Thomas Francis Meagher in 1843 as being “a massive hinge of stone connecting the two great outspread wings, the Quay and the Mall within which lay the body of the city”, Reginald’s Tower is one of the finest surviving examples of medieval urban defence in Ireland.
The story of Reginald’s Tower begins with the Viking adventurer Regnall who constructed a defensive base (known as a Longphort) where the tower stands today. Regnall was the grandson of the feared Ivor the Boneless, and by establishing his longphort at Waterford he created the foundations for the city. It quickly developed into an important trading hub, and Waterford become a vital part in an expansive trading network that connected it to far flung and exotic places like Baghdad, Greenland, Russia and Byzantium.
Waterford grew in wealth and prestige, and gradually the Viking raiders became entwined with the Gaelic Irish population through alliances and marriage, forming a culture known to historians and archaeologists today as the Hiberno-Norse.
Interior of Reginald’s Tower
The peace of Waterford was not to last though, the city was taken following a siege by the Anglo-Normans in 1170 after many of the Waterford men were slaughtered after falling into Raymond le Gros’s cunning trap at nearby Baginbun in County Wexford (click herefor that story). The Normans held the leaders of the city in Reginald’s Tower, but released them following an intervention by their Irish ally, Diarmaid MacMurrough, King of Leinster. The leader of the Normans, Richard de Clare (known as Strongbow) married King Diarmaid’s daughter Aoife in Christchurch Cathedral in Waterford, strengthening the alliance between the Norman invaders and the Irish kingdom of Leinster.
The Hiberno-Norse warriors who survived were expelled from Waterford, but rose in a bloody rebellion in 1174, forcing the Norman nobles and garrison to take shelter in Reginald’s Tower, where they managed to repel the attack and following reinforcement they took back the city. King Henry II in England had began to worry that Strongbow was becoming altogether too powerful and big for his boots, so he sailed into Waterford in 1171 and declared the wealthy Waterford to be a ‘Royal City’, thus denying its lucrative trade to Strongbow.
King Henry had the city refortified in the early thirteenth century, and it is likely that it was at this time that the wooden fort of Reginald’s Tower was reconstructed in stone. He had large stone walls constructed to surround and protect the city with a number of defensive gateways and towers added. Portions of these walls still survive today, and of the seventeen defensive towers that once protected Waterford only six still survive, with Reginald’s Tower being the most impressive and best preserved.
Reginald’s Tower was again at the centre of the action in 1495, Perkin Warbeck a pretender to the English Crown, sailed up the River Suir and began to bombard Waterford to force it to surrender. The people of Waterford retaliated by firing cannon from Reginald’s Tower and succeeded in sinking one of Warbeck’s ships, defending the city with such ferocity that Warbeck retreated. In recognition of the determined bravery by the people of Waterford, King Henry VII gave Waterford the motto: ‘Urbs Intacta Manet Waterfordia’ – Waterford Remains the Untaken City.
Casement in Reginald’s Tower
However the Tower is not without its scars, and if you look high on the tower to the right-hand side of the entrance you can see a cannonball deeply embedded into the stone. This was fired during the Parliamentary siege in 1650. They had returned to capture Waterford after Cromwell had failed to do so in 1649, Waterford was the last Irish city east of the Shannon to fall to Cromwell’s forces.
Today visiting Reginald’s Tower you can become steeped in all of this history, and see the variety of ways that Reginald’s Tower has served Waterford over the centuries, from being a defensive bastion, a coin mint, an armoury and arsenal, a prison and the home of the High Constable of the city. It is split over four floors connected by a medieval -tyle spiral staircase, with displays on different aspects of the buildings history on each level.
There are some really interesting artefacts on display, as a dog owner I was touched by the 900-year-old beautifully intricate dog collar, it must have belonged to a rightly pampered twelfth century pooch! (Pictured above)
Reginald’s Tower is a truly iconic landmark of Waterford, and today the superb museum is certainly worth a visit! It is under the auspices of the Office of Public Works, you can find information about opening hours, entry fees and accessibility here.
From Reginald’s Tower take a short walk up the Mall to The Medieval Museum(pictured above). This is one of Ireland’s newest and finest museums, and is a superb place to spend a few hours of the day. You enter the beautifully designed museum that combines modern architecture with the medieval Choristers Hall and fifteenth century wine cellars (pictured below).
15th century wine cellar in the Medieval Museum, Waterford
Spread across a number of floors, the Medieval Museum leads you through Waterford’s history from its foundation as a Viking Longphort, through the medieval and Tudor periods and up to the seventeenth century.
Some of the artefacts on display are just incredible and include the unique Great Charter Roll from 1373, the Cap of Maintenance, (the only item of Henry VIII’s wardrobe that still exists), The Great Parchment Book (detailing 300 years of life in Waterford and ends dramatically with the final entry during Cromwell’s siege of 1649). If you go this summer you can also see the famous Lismore Crozier that is on temporary loan to the Medieval Museum from the National Museum of Ireland.
The Cap of Maintenance – the only item of Henry VIII’s wardrobe still existing – is in the Medieval Museum of Waterford.
The number and significance of the artefacts and manuscripts on display is staggering, and it contains perhaps the most breathtaking display of any museum in Europe – the wonderful collection of fifteenth century vestments. They are displayed in a darkened room lit by stars (pictured below), and you can walk around the sumptuous robes to see the intricate detail and lavish design close up.
My picture and words cannot possibly do justice to this incredible display. The museum is also great for kids with a number of interactive displays and panels.
Staircase at the Georgian Museum of Waterford
When you fancy moving forward in history cross the courtyard to the Bishop’s Palace Georgian Museum. Here we enjoyed a really entertaining guided tour by the gossipy housekeeper Mrs Rickards who had just returned from watching the hanging of a man found guilty of murdering the head gardener. She squabbled her way around the beautifully restored Bishops Palace with the butler Mr Whatwhy. They pointed out some of the fascinating objects on display that illustrate life in eighteenth and nineteenth century Waterford.
Some of the highlights included the oldest piece of Waterford Crystal in the world (from 1789), and a mourning cross commissioned by Napoleon’s mother on the Emperor’s death in 1821, you can even see a lock of Napoleon’s hair! I was really interested by the uniform and sword of one of Waterford’s most famous sons, the Irish patriot Thomas Francis Meagher, the man who introduced the modern tricolour to Ireland.
Dining room in the Georgian Museum
The museum has items relating to the modern era upstairs with a fancy pair of hucklebuck shoes from the 1960s on display…
These three museums that form The Waterford Museum of Treasures are an absolute fascinating way of spending a day, I cannot recommend a visit highly enough. If you still have a hankering to see some of the sites of Waterford then the Waterford Crystal visitor centre is just across the road, and the city itself is a great place to wander around to soak in the atmosphere of the ancient city. You can find more information by looking here.
All photographs © Neil Jackman/abartaheritage.ie
I hope you enjoy my articles on Irish heritage sites, if anyone has any suggestions for places to visit I’d love to hear them. Please leave a comment below or find us onTwitter, Facebook or Google+. If you’d like to consider supporting us you can do so by downloading one of our audioguides.
They are narrated by professional actors, and contain original music by talented musician Enda Seery to help immerse you in the story. They generally run for around 45mins and can be downloaded from our website here.
The information on Waterford in this article was first published in August 2013.
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Anyone who is available in Drogheda today, please go out and meet our Taoiseach in your town. Be vocal,, let the six one news headline tonight be Leo scrambling into his car as the people of his country shout their disapproval at him and his inept performance since he has got his job, crime rampant, hospital crisis, housing nightmare,, a nice little run up to his election……
@devils avacado: sorry, but I don’t think that’s the right thing to do during this tragedy!!
@Denise McGowan: while I understand your point, these gangs seem to operate with impunity, shooting each other in hotels in broad daylight comes to mind.
Time the Garda got tough or more tragedies like this will happen. Needs to be addressed at government level.
@Denise McGowan: you might be right,, they should probably leave it till the next time he plans to go to crime ridden town that Drogheda seems to have become…..
@Denise McGowan: why?
@Denise McGowan: it’s the perfect time to do it
@Euro McPúnty: since it appears that those involved are well known in the area, the better course of action is for those with information to give it to the Gardai. Stunts like this suggestion won’t bring anyone to justice.
@milton friedman: what do you mean by ‘time the Gardai got tough’? I’ve heard this phrase used plenty of times but nobody seems to elaborate.
@devils avacado: If convicted criminals with 50 to 100 convictions were kept behind bars for longer periods of time instead of being given suspended or a gentle slap on the wrist sentences, they would not be out on the streets as much in order to commit more murders and to terrorise the citizens of this country.
@devils avacado: Drogheda is battling with a reputation at the moment and the last thing they need is to show a hostile reaction to an invited guest.
@Pat O Brien: Would probably mean a heavy handed approach to dealing with this s(um. Fight fire with fire and squeeze the life from them. Confiscate everything they have, even the clothes off their backs. And when I say ‘they’, gards know every last one of them.
@Daniel Kevin Sullivan: “ stunts like this suggestion”?? For years the people and Garda of Drogheda have been saying that the town is rampant with crime and it is a boiling pot that is going to spill over,, the barbaric murder of a child this week has highlighted what many people have known for years, the people of Drogheda need help, the town they have grown up in/moved into is in the headlines for all the wrong reasons, thugs are running the show with zero fear of the law. The people should take to the streets today if Leo is in town, and show their support for that boys loved ones by letting the Taoiseach know what is happening is unacceptable, enough is enough, the people need to get out and use the media presence today to tell our leaders that they want their town back….
@Rochelle: nonsense.
@Michael Lynch: I’m sure the gardai do know who’s who. But I still don’t know what ‘getting tough’ and ‘heavy handed’ mean. I’m asking a genuine question. Where I’m coming from is I take it nobody wants the Gardai to go outside the law, which I don’t want them to, but in that context, what do people mean by the above two phrases?
@George Vladisavljevic: how about ‘more than one’ conviction…?
@Pat O Brien: while I know it is a platitude but in its simplest form, you assess what resources and intelligence the Garda have, and then you strategize how to improve results i.e. convictions, confiscation of fire arms and drugs.
Basically make it so these gangs can’t operate.
@Shane McGrath:
The law profession wouldn’t allow it. The revolving door system keeps up employment and assures wages for the sector.
@Pat O Brien: i think many people vent their frustration with out outdated criminal justice system with the sentiment ‘time for garda to get tough’ – -its just people sick of the soft touch , suspended sentences , lack of new prisons , oitdated garda tech ( pulse is not fit for purpose ) – not enough visible garda etc etc – its just a way people vent a complex area – whatever party gets SERIOUS about building more prisons and making a tougher concerted overhaul in criminal justice – not just false promises – the people would welcome that.
@devils avacado: It sounds like you don’t give a damn about Drogheda and you’re just another Dub wanting to use a crisis away from your own doorstep as a political opportunity.
@Dave Hammond: I agree with you on both your points.
@milton friedman: but it is my understanding that all of this is being done. Hence my question.
@Rochelle: yes, ok, that’s fine Rochelle,, whatever you say, spout as much nonsense as you like. It doesn’t make it true thou….
@Denise McGowan: sorry but what happened is not a tragedy. The boy was involved in gangs and has probably done awful things to innocent people. It’s sad that he got involved with the wrong people but he would have grown up to be a very dangerous man I’m having trouble having any sympathy for him
@jason traynor: protesting at Leinster house might be more appropriate. Not where a young guy has been murdered.
@D: it’s a tragedy that his family are grieving through. He we only 17
@Pat O Brien: I imagine Gardai will say the resources are not there to do it sufficiently, so there is one way to address the issue.
I’m calling for action from those in charge, who are paid to make these decisions, I do not have all the answers.
Where was he for all the other murdered? Easily know election season is in full swing.
@Craig Clancy: All those other 17yr olds chopped up? This is one of the most vicious and disgusting murders this country has seen so it is right imo that he is showing his face there.
@Sal Paradise: another leo supporter.
Taoiseach shocked by drug dealers death…..wow
Suit him far better to visit the local hospital and see first hand how under staffed the hospital is
@John Joe Bridie: he knows. He is an MD and his partner practices.
I wonder will he say.. “but he was known to Gardai” and shrug his shoulders in the same way he said about the homeless guy injured in the tent being known to authorities
@Hughie Lynch: he will also bring up fg’s brilliant success on tackling crime and how fg are working on new measures to tackle crime then he will try and slate ff and sf while thinking quietly to himself “these fools will believe anything i say, i hope my socks look good in this”
@Hughie Lynch: are we supposed to feel sympathy for a lad that firebombed people’s homes and attacked known murderers on the streets and got his comeuppance?
“will consider” chances are probable that he won’t. Leo is not one to mingle with us common people.
Taoiseach travels to Drogheda as DNA results due on remains. Is Leo a suspect?
Leo standing hopelessly by a stable door as a horse gallops past him again.
This is truly tragic but it’s interesting how criminals always seem to get the most attention from politicians. Why is that?
@Morning Gus: because unlike for example the homeless guy where they can deflect blame to another party or person and quickly move on, they can talk about criminals all they want, because he doesn’t think he is to blame and plays on the notion that we as a society don’t care what criminals do to each other, which is I suppose is largely true.
I’m still Taoiseach, so I do still have my responsibilities and obligations as Taoiseach. So I’m obviously trying to campaign around them but, you know, I certainly give it consideration.
Leo’s biggest responsibility and obligation is to protect the citizens of this country,all other issues pale after that.
@Fabio Dillon: I think you’re doing a disservice to the people of Drogheda, the majority of whom want nothing to do with this feud. Far more people are killed in other parts of the country, yet you’re happy to jump upon a media fueled bandwagon. This is the biggest town in the country, maybe if it hadn’t been so neglected by successive governments and had some investment they wouldn’t have such problems. They have a sitting FG TD for many years, with little to show for it.
These people couldn’t give a f___ if every town in Ireland held a rally , action is what’s needed by the government , guards and especially the judicial system .
This country is decending fast into complete lawlessness every day now we have a murder or a serious assault it’s that common now it doesn’t even make the news .
The next government should stop bowing to this racist card and call it as it is , it’s about time we starting deporting people who commit crimes in this country and give proper sentences to our own all ot our own .
Leo’s pledge to put killers behind bars …… forgive me for being cynical , but put that in the intray leo with your USC, Hopistal crisis and homeless crisis pledges!!
Just another soundbite from you, in the Tragedy thats going on .
He’s only making use of the event for his own gain. A PR stunt to win the hearts of the people or so he hope. He has never and will never give a $hite about common people.
Leo’s pledge to put killers behind bars …… forgive me for being cynical , but put that in the intray leo with your USC, Hopistal crisis and homeless crisis pledges!!
Just another soundbite from you, in the Tragedy thats going on .
Good God, does this man’s arrogance have no bounds? Much better for the Drogheda march if he doesn’t attend-his clear lack of understanding would mean he’d have the gall to use it for canvassing.
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